Managing your pets’ anxiety

What causes pets to become anxious?

When your pet has a consistent routine and a predictable environment, they are calm and confident because they know what to expect. When new variables are introduced to their comfortable routine, they may become anxious because suddenly they don’t know what to expect. Things feel unpredictable and scary, which can be perceived as physically threatening.

If your quiet home is filled with new people during holiday time, your cat may feel like she’s lost control of her environment, or your dog may feel unsure of how to behave, who needs protecting, and how to deal with new people. Pets may feel overwhelmed by new stimuli, especially if they are approached by pet-friendly strangers who want to pet and engage with them. Sometimes even the most socialised pets will become anxious by this.

Loud noises – whether from fireworks, Christmas crackers, or jovial socialising – can be very scary to your extra sound-sensitive pet. Pets can be photosensitive too, which, coupled with loud noises, can be particularly fear-inducing for your dog or cat.

How do you calm a fearful dog?

From as early on as possible, puppies need to be socialised with as many different people and animals as possible in a range of different environments. Ultimately, this will help them to build confidence and not be so fearful of new situations, people and other pets. That being said, even the most well-socialised animals can still experience anxiety in unpredictable situations. The following solutions can help to decrease their anxiety levels:

Take them out of the stressful environment

If you’re having a dinner party, remove your dog to another room, away from the noise and lights, and give him a chew toy or a comforting plushie. If he’s trained, give him the ‘place’ command and reward him with some treats for going to his bed.

Do a quick training routine

With a handful of treats, give your dog the ‘sit’ command and reward him. ‘Down’, ‘stay’ and other behavioural commands with rewards for obedience can completely change your dog’s demeanour and bring him out of his anxious state.

Don’t reward the stress

It’s important to give your dog a job to do (‘sit’, ‘down’, ‘paw’) before giving him treats as a comfort for his anxiety. By giving him treats or a toy without a command, it could be seen as rewarding the anxiety, which can become problematic in the long run.

Exercise and play

If you’re anticipating your pup getting anxious around the guests and noise, spend some time exercising and playing with him earlier in the day. Pent-up energy can worsen the effects of anxiety, so tire him out first. The serotonin from the enjoyment of playtime can help your dog to relax. If your dog is nervous and withdrawn while your guests are around, spend time playing with him afterwards to get rid of his anxious energy. 

Pheromones in the environment

Calming collars, diffusers, sprays, gels and tablets can help to regulate your dog’s anxiety with the distribution of pheromones. If you’re anticipating a large dinner party, family members coming to stay, or a fireworks display, start giving your dog pheromone therapy for a week or two in advance. This can help to keep him calm when these holiday events arise.

Calming music  

Dogs respond well to calming music – classical music works exceptionally well and can be used to calm a dog down ahead of time or during an anxiety-inducing event.

Desensitisation

If you’re anticipating a thunderstorm or fireworks and you know your dog is going to be terrified, try a desensitisation strategy a few weeks in advance. Play the sounds of a thunderstorm – quietly at first and gradually increase the volume over time (hours or days) as your dog does not display signs of anxiety. If he becomes aware of the sounds, reward him with a treat or playtime – this will help to change his response to the noise. Done thoughtfully and consistently, desensitisation can offer your dog relief from the anxiety associated with loud noises.

Veterinary assistance

If your dog is extremely anxious and shuts down completely or is uncontrollably stressed, arrange a visit with the vet to address the problem. Make a note of all the strategies you’ve adopted that have not been effective. The vet may prescribe anti-anxiety medication and suggest behaviour therapy and counter-conditioning with a behavioural specialist.

How can you help your cat with anxiety?

Cats can do equally well with socialisation and exposure to different people and animals. However, cats – more so than dogs – are either sociable or more independent and will choose when they prefer the company of others (or not). If your cat is anxious when there are lots of people around and especially lots of noise, try some or all of the following to relieve her anxiety:

Take her to a safe space

If you often find your cat hiding in the linen cupboard or behind the couch when you have company over, it should give you an indication that she needs a safe space away from the crowds and the noise. Provide a comfy cat ‘cave’ if your cat likes to hide; or a tall cat tree or window perch if she likes to be away from the party, but to still observe her surrounds.

Exercise and play

Engage your cat’s hunting instincts with a feather toy, laser pointer, wind-up mouse or catnip toy. This will encourage engagement with reward-based behaviours, which help to reduce her anxiety.

Keep the litterbox clean

Some cats’ anxiety is elevated by a soiled litterbox. Double up on the frequency of scooping the litterbox or even put out another litterbox just in case.

Pheromone therapy

As with dogs, cats may respond well to the relaxing effect of pheromone diffusers, sprays, food additives and tablets.

Natural remedies

From catnip to CBD oil and valerian herbal remedies – there are a range of natural remedies that can help to calm down anxious cats. Speak to the vet about which remedy could be most effective for your cat. Be very careful of essential oil diffusers, as these may release fumes that are toxic to pets.

Calming music  

Like dogs, cats also have super-sensitive hearing, and respond positively to soft, calming music. When playing music to counter the effects of thunderstorms or fireworks, also close the curtains and make sure your cat’s environment is safe and muted.

Veterinary assistance

If your cat does not seem to be responding positively to your anti-anxiety efforts, schedule a visit to the veterinarian to discuss possible solutions. The vet may prescribe anti-anxiety medication, but a long-term strategy will need to be devised to reduce your cat’s anxiety in a healthy way, and increase your cat’s quality of life in the long run.

© 2023 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

Nutritional Supplements for Pets

I’m concerned that my pet’s diet may be deficient in vitamins and omega-3s. Can I give her supplements?

High-quality nutrition

We know that people who eat healthily and have an active lifestyle have a longer life expectancy than those who do not. The same is true for our pets. If you want your furry friend to live a longer, healthier life, it’s crucial that you feed them a high-quality, veterinary-approved diet. These diets have been scientifically formulated and balanced to meet each type of pet’s specific needs. Choose the right diet for your dog’s breed, size, age and activity levels to give them optimal nutrition. Cats need feline-specific nutrition designed to meet their needs based on age, breed, activity levels and other explicit conditions (obesity, sensitive tummy, dental health, hairball-prone, etc.). When purchasing pet food, you get what you pay for. There is no degree of nutritional supplementation that can compensate for feeding a cheap, poor-quality diet.

Supplements are available for various conditions

Nutritional supplements are vitamins, minerals and other nutrients that are added to your pet’s diet to balance and enhance it. Various nutrients serve specific functions in the body, and these may be incorporated directly into the food or may be given as tablets, powders or liquids.

General health and condition supplements

If you are feeding your pet a high-quality commercially produced diet that is appropriate for their condition, you should not need to add any supplements, provided that your pet is healthy. Home-cooked diets may be provided with the best intentions towards your pet’s health, but they can, however, be deficient in vitamins, minerals and other nutrients for overall good health. These diets may need to be supplemented, in which case it’s very important to use a species-specific supplement to avoid deficiencies or toxicities.

Joint supplements

These supplements are prescribed for pets that are predisposed to and/or suffering from osteoarthritis (a chronic inflammatory condition of the joints, which causes pain and loss of mobility). Joint supplements contain ingredients that have anti-inflammatory effects in the joint, protect cells from free radical damage, and provide building blocks for cartilage and joint fluid. Important ingredients to look out for in joint supplements are glucosamine, chondroitin, EPA and DHA (omega-3 fatty acids), vitamins E and C, and green-lipped mussel extract.

Skin supplements

Skin supplements are typically prescribed for pets with skin allergies or dry, flaky, itchy skin. These supplements are designed to provide nutrients essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. They also have an anti-inflammatory effect. Important ingredients include omega-3 and 6 fatty acids (found in flaxseed, evening primrose and marine fish oils), vitamins A, C and E, biotin, nicotinamide and zinc. Humans and animals have different requirements for omega-3 and 6 fatty acids; therefore, you should not use a human supplement for your pets.

Geriatric supplements

As our pets age they may start to experience deteriorating eyesight, a decline in cognitive function, decreased mobility and a deterioration in general body condition. They can also become deficient in vitamins, minerals and other nutrients as they tend to eat less due to their decreasing appetite. Supplements for geriatric animals contain ingredients that aid brain function, provide joint support and help maintain lean muscle mass. Important ingredients include omega-3 and 6 fatty acids, glucosamine, chondroitin, carotenoids and flavonoids, vitamin E, L-carnitine, antioxidants and taurine.

Calming supplements

Anxiety in dogs and cats can manifest as behavioural problems as well as medical conditions. Some dogs are prone to stress-induced tummy upsets, where cats are prone to urinary tract problems. Ingredients in calming aids that are useful include theanine, tryptophan, vitamins B1, B3, B6 and B12, and milk hydrolysates such as alpha casozepine.

Liver supplements

Liver supplements are used for liver failure, hepatitis and damage to the liver as result of toxin exposure. They contain ingredients that support liver function, decrease inflammation and provide nutrients that the liver may struggle to produce if it’s under strain. Important ingredients are milk thistle, thioctic acid, pangamic acid, L-carnitine, vitamins E and K, and B-complex vitamins.

Kidney supplements

Kidney supplements are used for pets at risk of and/or suffering from chronic kidney failure. They contain ingredients that bind phosphate in the intestine (as excess phosphate levels worsen kidney failure) and have protective effects on the kidneys (anti-inflammatories and antioxidants). Ingredients to look out for are omega-3 fatty acids, co-enzyme Q10, chitosan, vitamin C, B-complex vitamins and vitamin E. Interestingly, the addition of omega-6 fatty acids to the diet has been shown to be detrimental to patients suffering from kidney disease. Be very careful when selecting any supplements for patients with kidney failure as they have very specific nutrient requirements and restrictions. Giving an inappropriate supplement may negatively affect your pet.

Digestive supplements

Most digestive supplements are given to patients suffering from gastrointestinal symptoms such as vomiting and diarrhoea. Important ingredients are prebiotics, probiotics, glutamine, gastrointestinal adsorbents, vitamins and minerals. Probiotics are live healthy bacteria, whereas prebiotics are special fibres that feed those healthy bacteria. Glutamine is an amino acid that is used by the intestinal lining cells to regenerate. Kaolin, pectin and diosmectite are intestinal adsorbents that help to mop up toxins from the intestine (such as those produced by bacteria during infections). Vitamins and minerals are added to replace those lost during vomiting or diarrhoea.

Calcium supplements

Calcium supplements are to be used with extreme caution and only under instruction from the veterinarian. They may be prescribed to lactating bitches and queens showing symptoms of inadequate calcium levels. However, if these supplements are fed to animals that do not have a calcium deficiency, the body’s natural processes that balance calcium are disrupted, which may lead to more severe signs of hypocalcaemia (low calcium levels) when the body’s need is at its highest. Supplementing calcium in especially large breed puppies can lead to growth abnormalities.

Quality and safety of supplements

There is no legal requirement for the quality control of supplements. Studies have shown that a large proportion of supplements do not contain the ingredients they claim to on the packaging. Some products have even been found to contain toxic substances. This is why you should always only use products that have been recommended by the veterinarian.

Conclusion

Good nutrition is a cornerstone of your pet’s health. Speak to the veterinary team about which diets they would recommend for your individual pet’s needs. The veterinarian can recommend any additional supplements that they feel are necessary for your pet’s wellbeing. Only use products from reputable companies and never use human supplements for your pets.

© 2023 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

Your new puppy

Adopting and bringing home a new puppy is a very exciting time. Everything is brand-new for your puppy and for you too. It may feel a bit overwhelming to start afresh with this new life in your home, but here are some very important parts of puppy care that you absolutely should not skip. The over-arching reason for ensuring you check all these care boxes is to keep your puppy as healthy as possible and to be a responsible pet parent.

Keep up your puppy’s vaccinations

Vaccinations are injections given to your puppy to help them produce immunity against some of the most common and dangerous dog diseases. Your puppy will get immunity from various diseases from their mommy, but this immunity starts to decrease when your puppy turns six weeks old. Until your puppy is about 16 weeks old, their immune system is not yet strong enough to fully protect them from these diseases, which is why the vet gives puppies multiple vaccinations at two- to four-week intervals during this time. It is important that their last vaccine against canine parvovirus is given at 16 weeks or later.

The vaccinations given to your puppy will protect them against canine parvovirus (also called cat flu), canine distemper virus, canine adenovirus type 1 and type 2, canine parainfluenza virus and rabies. Be sure to keep your puppy’s vaccinations up to date.

Remember that your puppy will not have full immunity against diseases until two to three weeks after their 16-week vaccination. For this reason it is important to keep them at home (i.e. do not take them to the park or let them play with other dogs) until they have completed their vaccinations. The only exception to this rule is going to puppy school, where all puppies attending are required to have been vaccinated.

Keep the worms away

Worms have evolved to very successfully transmit themselves from mommy dogs to puppies. Vets consider all young animals to be born with worms, so they deworm puppies at each vaccination. After worms in the intestine have been killed, immature worms from the tissues will move into the intestine. By repeatedly deworming them the vet can kill each new infection that forms. After puppy vaccinations and deworming, dogs should be dewormed once every three months. If your dog is diagnosed with worms, they may be treated more often. Remember that all places where other dogs can be found – like dog parks and walkways – are high-risk areas for your dogs to contract worms.

Test for these parasites before they become a problem

Worms are not the only parasites that can infect your puppy. Giardia and coccidia are common intestinal parasites contracted from the mommy dog that can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and a poor appetite (from the infections giardiasis and coccidiosis). The vet should test your new puppy for these parasites as soon as you’ve adopted them. If these parasites are found, the vet will be able to treat your puppy before they become very ill.

Always prevent ticks and fleas

Ticks and fleas are parasites that live on your dog’s skin. They suck blood, which can cause anaemia (low red blood cell levels) and make your puppy or dog weak and lethargic. Fleas cause itchiness and ticks can transmit diseases such as tick bite fever. These parasites can be as small as the head of a pin, so not being able to see them does not mean your pet doesn’t carry them. Your puppy can pick up these parasites when going for walks in the park, from the garden or from your home and other pets. The best way to control ticks and fleas is to preventatively treat your puppy against these parasites. The vet will help you to choose the best product for your needs. A common misconception is that these treatments are only necessary in the warm months of the year, but that’s not necessarily true. Although ticks and fleas will decrease during the cooler months, they will never go away entirely, which is why all vets recommend maintaining parasite treatments throughout the year.

Your puppy’s nutritional needs

We already know that people who eat a nutritious diet are healthier and live longer lives than people who eat an unhealthy diet. The same is true for our pets. Good nutrition is particularly important in puppies as their bodies are growing and developing at a very rapid rate. The vet will recommend a scientifically balanced diet that has been designed to meet all of your puppies’ nutritional requirements to grow up strong and healthy. Your puppy should be able to chew pelleted or kibble foods from six weeks of age, so from this time, it is important to feed your puppy only the recommended diet with occasional dog treats. This means that your puppy should not be getting any human food. Our food can be too rich for their little tummies and some of the ingredients we use can be toxic to dogs. Bones are an absolute no-no for any dog. They carry various health risks and much healthier options for chewing and gnawing are available for your pet. The vet will advise you on the best diet for your new puppy.

Be puppy-wise and sterilise your pet!

Sterilisation describes the surgical procedure of removing a pet’s reproductive organs so that they are not able to reproduce. In female dogs we call this procedure a spay or ovariohysterectomy. In male dogs we refer to it as neutering or castration. Another familiar term is ‘having them fixed’.

Sterilisation is recommended for many reasons. There is a major pet overpopulation problem in South Africa, with thousands of homeless dogs and cats in shelters, waiting to be adopted. The primary reason for this is indiscriminate breeding and unintended litters from pets that have not been spayed. By having your pet sterilised before they can reproduce, you ensure that fewer animals are abandoned.

There are also important health benefits to sterilisation. Spaying female dogs significantly decreases the chances of them getting mammary gland cancer (like breast cancer) later in life. Pyometra is a life-threatening condition where female dogs get an infection in their uterus. A spay involves the removal of the uterus, so spayed females will never develop that illness. Male dogs that are neutered cannot develop testicular cancer. There are also behavioural benefits: dogs that are sterilised tend to be less aggressive. They are also less inclined to wander the streets, getting lost or injured.

Vets recommend sterilisation of female and small breed male dogs at five to six months of age. Large and giant breed male dogs can benefit from not being sterilised until 12 to 18 months of age, due to the effect of testosterone on bone development. However, this will depend on their behaviour. If the vet starts to see problems in your dog’s behaviour that are related to them not being neutered, they recommend that it be done before those behaviours become permanent.

Pet parents are often concerned about their pet’s personality changing after sterilisation or their pet gaining a lot of weight. It is true that sterilised animals are more prone to being overweight, but simple management of their food intake and ensuring they exercise regularly will keep them in tip top condition. Rest assured that sterilisation will not change your pet’s personality. Each dog is individual, so speak to the vet to get the best advice based on your own dog’s needs.

Microchipping – Never lose your dog

If your pet does not already have a microchip implanted, it is strongly recommended that you do so. The microchip is as small as a grain of rice. It is implanted by injection into the area between the shoulder blades. The procedure is fast and no more painful than a vaccination injection. The microchip transmits a signal with a unique number that is registered to you. Should your pet go missing and be taken to a vet or a shelter, they will be scanned for a microchip. You will then be contacted and your pet can be returned to you. Unfortunately, many animals in South Africa do not have microchips. This leads to large numbers of animals ending up in shelters with their owners never being able to find them. With a microchip, your pet can always find their way back home should they go missing.

Financial peace of mind with pet insurance

Pet insurance is medical cover for your pet. Unfortunately, pet illness and injury are a part of life and veterinary care is necessary and sometimes expensive. Having pet insurance means that you are able to make the best decisions for your pet’s medical care, rather than cutting corners. There are various products available and the vet will advise you on the best one for your pet’s needs. It’s important to consider a plan that provides at least accidental and illness cover, so that you can get care for your pet if they are unwell or have a medical emergency.

Some plans will include a wellness benefit, which will make a contribution to routine care treatments such as annual health checks, vaccinations, deworming, tick and flea treatments and dental procedures. Hereditary illnesses are those that are inherited from the parents and are not often covered in pet insurance policies. Should you have a breed of dog that is known to have hereditary problems, it would be beneficial to include this cover in your policy. When you take out an insurance policy for your pet, make sure that you fully understand the benefits, terms and conditions of your policy, to avoid unwelcome surprises later on.

Socialise your puppy so that they fit right in

The first few months of your puppy’s life are critical to their healthy social and behavioural development. If your puppy has a positive experience getting to know new animals, people and places, it will make them happier and more confident. Puppy socialisation classes are crucial for not only teaching your puppy good behaviour, but also for teaching you how to effectively communicate with them. This will help you to have a well-behaved dog that is not fearful or aggressive.

It is strongly recommended that all puppies attend socialisation classes. It’s also wise to take larger breed and giant breed dogs for obedience training. If your puppy is going to grow into a large and strong dog, it is vital that they are trained to obey your commands so that you are able to handle them on outings such as to the park or to the vet. It is very difficult for the veterinarian to provide good care for your dog if they are aggressive and do not allow the vet to examine or treat them.

Aside from having good manners, going to socialisation and training classes is an important time for you to bond with your new puppy. This will teach them that you are their family and they can trust you.

Socialisation and training classes are not only for puppies. Newly introduced adult dogs, in particular rescues who may have had a rough start in life, will also benefit tremendously from attending socialisation or training classes.

In conclusion

Your new puppy’s life just got so much better, but it’s important that you consider all aspects of their wellbeing and make sure these are met. From medical (vaccination, deworming, parasite control and sterilisation), nutritional, financial and social requirements, to physical exercise and mental stimulation – puppy care is more than just a walk in the park. If you need any help with the care of your new furry family member, please reach out to the vet for a consultation.

© 2023 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

Your new kitten

Important things to know about new kitten care

Adopting and bringing home a new kitten is a very exciting time. Everything is brand-new for your kitten and for you too. It may feel a bit overwhelming to start afresh with this new life in your home, but here are some very important parts of kitten care that you absolutely should not skip. The over-arching reason for ensuring you check all these care boxes is to keep your kitten as healthy as possible and to be a responsible pet parent.

Keep up your kitten’s vaccinations

Vaccinations are injections given to your kitten to help them produce immunity against some of the most common and dangerous feline diseases. Your kitten will get immunity against various diseases from the mommy cat, but this immunity starts to decrease when your kitten turns six weeks old. Until your kitten is about 16 weeks old, their immune system is not yet strong enough to fully protect them from these diseases, which is why we give kittens multiple vaccinations at two- to four-week intervals during this time. It is important that their last kitten vaccinations are given at 16 weeks or later.

The vaccinations given to your kitten will provide protection against feline herpesvirus, feline calicivirus, feline panleukopaenia virus and rabies. Some vaccines have an additional component against Chlamydia conjunctivitis infections. Take note that unfortunately vaccination does not provide 100% protection against all diseases, so it’s vital to limit your kitten’s exposure to potential disease-carrying cats.

What are FIV and FeLV?

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV) are common viral infections in cats and can have potentially life-threatening consequences. Kittens can contract these viruses from infected cats that they come into contact with, including the mother cat. They can cause a subclinical infection, meaning that your cat may be infected and not show any symptoms for months or even years. During this time, your cat is a risk for transmitting the virus to other cats.

In the initial stages both viruses can cause a fever, poor appetite and lethargy. If cats recover from this, they can develop a long-standing infection that eventually leads to increased susceptibility to infectious diseases, anaemia, formation of tumours (such as lymphoma) and chronic mouth inflammation, to name a few.

All cats should be tested for FIV and FeLV. Knowing the status of your cats will help you to make informed decisions about allowing your cats to have contact with other cats both in your household and outside (i.e. whether your cat should be kept an indoor-only cat). Cats that carry either or both of these viruses should always be kept separate from other cats. This is to prevent them from infecting other cats, but also to protect them from contracting any infections other cats may be carrying.

The test is performed at the veterinary practice after collection of a blood sample, and the results are usually available within an hour. It’s best to keep your new kitten or cat separate from your other cats (if any) until the statuses of all cats in the household are known.

Keep the worms away

Worms have evolved to very successfully transmit themselves from mommy cats to kittens. Vets consider all young animals to be born with worms, so kittens are dewormed at each vaccination. After worms in the intestine have been killed, immature worms from the tissues will move into the intestine. By repeatedly deworming them the vet can kill each new infection that forms. After kitten vaccinations and deworming, all cats should be dewormed once every three months.

Test for these parasites before they become a problem

Worms are not the only parasites that can infect your kitten. Giardia and coccidia are common intestinal parasites that can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and a poor appetite. The vet should test your new kitten for these parasites as soon as you’ve adopted them. If these parasites are found, the vet will be able to treat your kitten before they become very ill.

Always prevent ticks and fleas

Ticks and fleas are parasites that live on your pet’s skin. They suck blood, which can cause anaemia (low red blood cell levels), itching and skin wounds, and transmit diseases. These parasites can be as small as the head of a pin, so not being able to see them does not mean your pet doesn’t carry them. Your kitten can pick them up from your home, your garden, or stray cats that come into your yard. The best means of control is to preventatively treat against these parasites. The vet will help you to choose the best product for your needs. A common misconception is that these treatments are only necessary in the warm months of the year. Although ticks and fleas will decrease during the cooler months, they will never go away entirely, which is why all vets recommend maintaining parasite treatments throughout the year.

Your kitten’s nutritional needs

We already know that people who eat a nutritious diet are healthier and live longer lives than people who eat an unhealthy diet. The same is true for our pets. Good nutrition is particularly important in kittens as their bodies are growing and developing. The vet will recommend a scientifically balanced diet that has been designed to meet all of your kitten’s nutritional requirements to grow up strong and healthy. Your kitten should be able to chew pelleted or kibble foods from six weeks of age, so from this time, it is important to feed your kitten only the recommended diet with occasional cat treats. This means that your kitten should not be getting any human food. Our food can be too rich for their little tummies and some of the ingredients we use can be toxic to cats. The vet will advise you on the best diet for your new kitten.

Be kitten-wise and sterilise your pet!

Sterilisation describes the surgical procedure of removing a pet’s reproductive organs so that they are not be able to reproduce. In female cats we call this procedure a spay or ovariohysterectomy. In male cats we refer to it as neutering or castration. Another familiar term is ‘having them fixed'.

Sterilisation is recommended for many reasons. There is a major pet overpopulation problem in South Africa, with thousands of homeless dogs and cats in shelters waiting to be adopted. The primary reason for this is indiscriminate breeding and unintended litters from pets that have not been spayed. By having your pet sterilised before they can reproduce, you ensure that fewer animals are abandoned.

There are also important health benefits to sterilisation. Spaying female cats decreases the chances of them getting mammary gland cancer (like breast cancer) later in life. Pyometra is a life-threatening uterus infection, which can be avoided altogether by having your cat spayed as the uterus will be removed. Sterilised cats are less likely to roam far and fight with other cats. This means they are less likely to be hit by cars, mauled by dogs, get into cat fights and contract infections such as FIV and FeLV. Additionally, male cats are very inclined to mark their territory by urinating (referred to as ‘spraying’) on walls, doors and other upright objects. This behaviour is lessened in male cats neutered at a young age.

Vets recommend sterilisation at an age of five to six months old, as cats are mature enough to mate and produce kittens at this age already. It is better to have this procedure done sooner rather than later.

Pet parents are often concerned about their pet’s personality changing after sterilisation or them gaining weight. It is true that sterilised animals are more prone to being overweight, but simple management of their food intake and ensuring they get enough daily exercise will keep them in tip top condition. Rest assured that sterilisation will not change your pet’s personality.

Microchipping – Never lose your cat

If your pet does not already have a microchip implanted, it is strongly recommend that you do so. The microchip is as small as a grain of rice and gets implanted by injection into the area between the shoulder blades. The procedure is fast and no more painful than a vaccination injection. The microchip transmits a signal with a unique number that is registered to you. Should your pet go missing and be taken to a vet or a shelter, they will be scanned for a microchip. You will then be contacted and your pet can be returned to you. Unfortunately, many animals in South Africa do not have microchips. This leads to large numbers of animals ending up in shelters with their owners never being able to find them. By having a microchip your pet can always find their way back home should they go missing.

Financial peace of mind with pet insurance

Pet insurance is medical cover for your pet. Unfortunately, pet illness and injury are a part of life and veterinary care is necessary and sometimes expensive. Having pet insurance means that you are able to make the best decisions for your pet’s medical care, rather than cutting corners. There are various products available and the vet will advise you on the best one for your needs. It’s important to consider a plan that provides at least accidental and illness cover, so that you can get care for your pet if they are unwell or have a medical emergency.

 

Some plans will include a wellness benefit, which will make a contribution to routine care treatments such as annual health checks, vaccinations, deworming, tick and flea treatments and dental procedures. Hereditary illnesses are those that are inherited from the parents and are not often covered in pet insurance policies. Should you have a breed of cat that is known to have hereditary problems, it would be beneficial to include this cover in your policy. When you take out an insurance policy for your pet, make sure that you fully understand the benefits, terms and conditions of your policy, to avoid unwelcome surprises later on.

In conclusion

Your new kitten’s life just improved ten-fold, but it’s important that you consider all aspects of their wellbeing and make sure these are met. From medical (vaccination, deworming, parasite control and sterilisation), nutritional, financial and social requirements, to physical exercise and mental stimulation – kitten care involves many more facets than simply play, feed and sleep. If you need any help with the care of your new furry family member, please reach out to the vet for a consultation.

© 2022 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

Administering oral, topical, ear and eye medication to cats and dogs

At some point in every pet’s life, they will need at-home treatment for a chronic or an acute illness, recurring infection, parasite control, wound care, etc. This is why it’s important for every pet parent to know how to give pets medication at home to complete their treatment. These are basic methods that are generally applicable to dogs and cats under average circumstances – we understand that some pets may be easier to handle or more relaxed than others, but we hope these tips will help most pet parents to better administer their pets’ medicines.

Tips for giving pets a pill

Most pet medications the vet will send home with you are given in pill format, and the easiest way to give your pet a pill is to disguise it in something yummy. You could wrap a dog treat around the pill, stick it in a piece of cheese or cold meat, or cover it with peanut butter or yoghurt – anything to make your dog think he’s getting a treat rather than his medication. Cats may be more difficult to fool because they tend to chew their food and treats more thoroughly, and if they find a hidden pill, they will most likely just spit it out. Avoid giving your pets human foods like avocado, anything containing xylitol, chocolate, and grapes/raisins. If there’s a risk of your pet realising they’re being duped, prepare three treats: feed them the first one, pill the second one, and follow it up straight away with the third one. In their anticipation of the third treat, your pet will swallow the pilled treat without noticing something 'a little different' in it.

If your pet is relaxed and used to being handled, you could simply open their mouth (gently opening their lower jaw instead of trying to raise their top jaw) and push the pill towards the back of their throat. If it’s far back enough, the animal’s natural reflex will be to swallow. To ensure it goes down the hatch, you could push the pill in, then quickly but gently hold their mouth closed and blow a little puff of air at their nose, which will stimulate their reflex to swallow.

If you’re nervous of putting your fingers in your pet’s mouth, the next best option is to use a pill popper, which is available from any vet shop or online pet store. It looks like a peashooter and is designed to be placed into the pet’s mouth, ejecting the pill far enough towards the back of the throat without your fingers getting in the way.

If you need to give a pill to a difficult cat or small dog, gently wrap a blanket or towel around them to keep their paws and claws out of the way. Hold the wrapped pet against your body with your non-dominant arm and administer the pill with your dominant hand. If your pet gets angry or shows any signs of being in pain, rather stop and wait until they are calm and/or sleepy before trying again.

Do not assume you can simply crush the pill and mix it in with your pet’s food. There are two risks associated with this: Some medication is designed to be absorbed further along the digestive tract, so crushing the pill will result in premature absorption, which will lower or eliminate the efficacy of the function of the medication – i.e. it won’t work. Also, if your pet doesn’t eat all their food, they won’t take in the required dosage of medication.

Tips for giving pets liquid medication

Similarly, ensure your pet is calm or sleepy before giving them liquid medication. The medication will usually be in a syringe, which can be inserted into your pet’s mouth from the side and squirted across the tongue. Don’t tilt your pet’s head back and aim the syringe directly into the back of the throat – there is a risk that it can enter your pet’s airway. Their head should be level and their lower jaw should be the ‘moving part’. Once you have squirted the liquid medication, gently keep their mouth closed and stroke their throat to stimulate them to swallow.

Liquid medication can also be mixed into a palatable treat like peanut butter, cream cheese or a pet food topper (sauce). Once again, the risk is that your pet won’t consume the whole dosage of medication, but this is an effective way to administer a liquid medication if your pet’s mouth is difficult to handle.

Tips for administering topical medication on pets

Topical medication is usually prescribed for wound care or skin infections and is quite simple to apply. The tricky part is ensuring your pet doesn’t groom immediately after application or try to lick off the medication. Since a lot of topical medications contain steroids, always use latex gloves when applying the ointment. Steroidal creams should never be administered by pregnant women.

To stop your pet from trying to lick the ointment off the treated area, apply it immediately before their dinner time or have a play session with your cat or take your dog for a walk afterwards. This will give the ointment time to absorb and get to work while your pet is distracted. If all else fails, it’s time to use an Elizabethan collar (or ‘cone of shame’) to discourage your pet from licking at their topical medication.

Tips for administering eye medication to dogs and cats

Dust, pollen, genetics or traumatic injury may make it necessary for your pet to get eyedrops. Before using the eyedrops on your pet, first clean the area around the eye with warm water and a ball of cottonwool. Make sure your pet is calm or sleepy – administering eyedrops to an excitable dog or to a cat who wants to be anywhere but there will make it all the more difficult.

Position yourself behind your calm, relaxed pet and keep the bottle of eye medication out of their sight. Hold your non-dominant hand under your pet’s lower jaw and tilt their head slightly upwards – this opens their eyes naturally. Holding the bottle of eyedrops/medication in your dominant hand, place the side of your palm on the top of your dog or cat’s head, which will give you some leverage to also gently pull the scalp back, opening their eyes even more. The position of your hands means that if your pet’s head moves, your hands move with it. Try not to force their head to stay in one place as this will make them anxious. Gently squeeze the recommended dosage of drops from about 2cm above – do not hold the nozzle too close to the eye as there is a risk of injury if your pet suddenly jerks their head. To prevent your pet from rubbing at their eye, hold your hand over their closed eye for a few moments, allowing the medication to get to work.

Tips for administering ear medication to dogs and cats

Some dogs are more susceptible to ear infections than others and will need their ears to be cleaned regularly. When they are used to this treatment, it becomes easier and quicker to clean their ears. All that’s required is a cotton ball and some ear cleaner. Do not use earbuds to try to clean inside the ear canal, and do not force the cotton ball into the ear. To apply the ear cleaner, hold your pet’s ear flap open and carefully insert the nozzle of the bottle into the external ear canal. Squeeze some liquid into the ear and gently massage the base of the ear to help the liquid penetrate into the canal. Be warned: Your pet may shake their head vigorously, which may send excess ear liquid flying. Have a towel and some cotton wool ready, and don’t medicate your pet’s ears near any expensive décor or furniture.

Prescribed medication for ear infections can be applied in the same way, but always read the instructions to ensure you administer it correctly.

General tips for administering pet medication

• Keep calm. Your pet can sense your emotions and will respond accordingly. Approach the process calmly and confidently to ensure the correct application of the medication.
• Speak to your pet in a soothing manner and give them verbal praise for being a ‘good boy’ or ‘good girl’ throughout the process. If they become agitated; stop. Rather try again later.
• If you are really struggling to administer your pet’s medication, ask the vet for advice, as each individual pet may have a different reaction to receiving their treatment.
• Make sure your pet receives the full required dosage of medication as prescribed.
• When your pet has received their pill, liquid medication, eye or ear treatment, or the topical medication has been applied and they are suitably distracted, lavish animated praise on your pet. This positive reinforcement will help them to associate receiving medication with feeling good.
• Do not share medications amongst pets.
• Always finish the full course of medication as prescribed by your vet.

© 2022 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd 

Requirements and process of emigrating with pets

If ever there was an occasion to test the bond between pet owner and beloved pet, it’s emigration. Moving overseas is a huge, stressful event that may feel overwhelming and nearly impossible… and that’s before you’ve even factored in your furry family members. However, with enough time and planning, ensuring you follow the correct protocols and stick to the regulations, you can successfully move yourself and your pets overseas.

The following represents a basic list of what you will need to consider and do in order to transport your pets to another country. Speak to the vet and a legitimate pet relocation company if you have any additional questions.

1. Give yourself enough time

There is a minimum period of four months required for first-time pet travellers to get all the necessary vaccinations and health checks done before leaving South Africa. This must be factored into your emigration planning. It is recommended that you allow a planning period of up to nine months to ensure you can adequately cover all the requirements.

2. Ensure your pets are microchipped

1. Your pets need to have an ISO (International Standards Organization) microchip implanted before they leave the country. If Fido somehow gets lost in transit, the ISO chip can be scanned anywhere in the world and he will be identifiable. If your pets are already microchipped, confirm with the vet that the chips are valid and are still in working order, then update your information on the chip company’s database. This is your first port of call for travelling internationally with your pets.
2. Despite your pets being microchipped, ensure they are wearing identification tags on their collars with your international contact details clearly visible.
3. IMPORTANT: Make sure your pets are microchipped before they receive any vaccinations. Vaccinations administered before the microchip is inserted are NOT VALID. If your pets’ shots are all up to date, but you still need to microchip them, you will need to redo the vaccinations after microchipping for them to be valid for international travel.

3. Use a professional pet relocation agency

Despite what your friend’s cousin said about emigrating with their border collie two years ago, or what your aunt’s neighbour did to get her Yorkie overseas last month, hearsay does not qualify when it comes to the official pet emigration process. For peace of mind and a guiding hand to help you and your pets, enlist the help of a pet relocation agency – they will know all of the official rules and requirements for relocation. They will also have the most up-to-date information on the requirements for your destination country and help to prevent any glitches.

4. Understand that each country will have different requirements

A pet relocation company will help you in this regard, but be sure to follow the exact requirements of the country you are moving to. Each destination may have different rules for paperwork, the requirement for quarantine (if any), and which tests and shots your pets will need to enter their country.

5. Ensure you get your pets’ rabies vaccinations done in the correct timeline

At the time your pets are due to travel, their rabies vaccines must be:

• less than 12 months old
• more than 30 days old
• recorded in your pets’ vet cards/booklets

IMPORTANT: In order to be valid for travelling overseas, the rabies vaccination must have been given by a South African Vet Council (SAVC)-registered veterinarian (whose qualifications must reflect under their signature), and for the state vet to acknowledge/validate this. Vaccines administered by veterinary assistants, breeders or ANY pet rescue organisation will not be accepted for travel purposes.

Your pets’ other vaccinations (like the 5-in-1 for dogs and kennel cough vaccine) must also be more than 30 days old, but less than 12 months old. Proof must be provided in their vet books.

6. Take note of the timeline for the Rabies Neutralising Antibody Titre Test (RNATT)

Similarly, the rabies titre test – in which the vet tests for proof that the rabies antibodies are in your pets’ blood – can only be done 30 days or more after the last rabies vaccination. Any differentiation from this timeline and state vet clearance will be denied. This may also mean that your pets may not be allowed to enter your destination country or they will need to be quarantined.

Only 90 days or more after blood for the rabies titre was drawn can the results be determined. The antibody count needs to be equal to or greater than 0.5 IU/ml. When this result is obtained, the vet will issue a health certificate. The state vet export office will need to see this original RNATT certificate.

7. Complete all information for the health certificate

A provincial health certificate must be completed before you can apply for a veterinary health certificate at the state vet export office. This application will be done on an appointment basis.

8. Familiarise your pets with the travel crate LONG before they need to use it

Your pets will need to travel in special pet transit crates. The airline you choose to transport your pet will have unique size and dimension specifications for pet crates, so confirm these with the airline and pet relocation agency in advance.

If your pets are not already comfortable in a crate, it’s highly beneficial to start familiarising them with a travel crate using positive reinforcement. Ensure they perceive the crate as a safe and positive place where they enjoy treats, comfy naps, their favourite toys and generally have an enjoyable experience. On the days of travelling, let this be the place they feel the least anxious. It will be very stressful for your pets to be cooped up in their crates for the very first time on the day of transit!

9. Familiarise yourself with the pet carrier’s logistics

Find out from your pet relocation agency all the logistics required when your pets travel. Their health and safety are crucially important and, for your peace of mind, feel free to ask about every stage in your pets’ journey from South Africa to their destination – wherever in the world that may be.

10. Invest in your pets’ health

Ask the vet to do a full health check-up in the months leading up to your pets’ travel date. It is important that they are as calm and healthy as possible. If any of your pets are a little overweight, have joint pain, sensitive tummies or are dealing with allergies, make sure these health issues are taken care of before they travel. Stress and anxiety can exacerbate existing health problems, but if your pet is as healthy as possible, it should make their travel experience a little less taxing.

Veterinary etiquette

If you’ve noticed that your pet’s behaviour is off or they are showing worrying symptoms, don’t hesitate to call the vet and schedule an appointment. However, this is just the first step in your responsibility towards your pet and in dealing with a veterinary practice. Your pet’s condition may cause you to act emotionally or to forget important symptoms or information.

To make your vet visits – especially in emergency situations – as smooth and calm as possible (for you, your pet and the veterinary staff), we’ve compiled this handy guide on how best to approach your next veterinary appointment.

Before the vet visit

Pet care costs money. However, do not put off a visit to the vet because you are worried about what it will cost – if your pet has worrying symptoms and needs medical attention, putting it off can make matters much worse and lead to an emergency, which will inevitably cost a lot more. Find out about pet insurance to cover any medical care before it becomes a necessity. This will save your budget and – more importantly – could save your pet!

Make an appointment

You cannot predict nor prevent medical emergencies when it comes to your pets, but for anything else, phone the veterinary practice and make an appointment. Whether your pet has a niggling problem that doesn’t seem to be going away on its own and you just want to ‘pop in’ to get the vet to check it out, or you are scheduling a routine procedure like a dental cleaning, it is vital that you make an appointment with the vet so they can give you and your pet the time and attention required to do the check-up, testing and diagnosis your pet might need.

Simply arriving at your vet’s practice and expecting to be seen immediately is discourteous. The vet may be in surgery or have other appointments to honour. The best way to ensure you and your pet will be appropriately attended to is to phone the practice ahead of time and make an appointment.

What if you arrive on time for your appointment, but the vet is not available?

Veterinarians often have to attend to pet medical emergencies, so there is a possibility that you arrive on time for your appointment, but the vet is not available. Try to understand and to be patient until the vet can see you and your pet. Put yourself in the shoes of the pet owner who has the emergency and realise that you wouldn’t want it to be you, but if it was, you would want others to be empathic and understanding and patient. If you need to wait while the vet is busy, being snippy or rude to the receptionist and support staff does not make the time go any faster or endear you to the practice.

Prepare for your appointment

The vet needs as much information about your pet’s symptoms, the timelines in which they occurred and any behavioural changes you may have noticed. Your pet relies on you to speak for them, so keep a record of any changes in patterns and behaviour you may have noticed. If your pet is vomiting or has diarrhoea, take note of the frequency, colour and consistency, as well as your pet’s behaviour before and after each episode. It may be helpful to take a small sample for the vet to test, but if you are not able to, the next best thing is to take photos with your phone to show the vet. Being able to give the vet as much information as possible about your pet’s behaviour and condition can positively influence the time it takes to make an accurate diagnosis and administer the appropriate treatment.

Remember to bring your pet’s vet card, any medication they have been receiving and any other information necessary. Write it down so you can discuss everything with the vet.

If your pet is scheduled for anaesthesia

If your pet is undergoing spaying/neutering, a dental cleaning or any other procedure for which anaesthesia is required, the vet will ask you to stop any food and water intake the night before the procedure. It is VITAL that you adhere to this instruction. Your pet’s stomach needs to be empty during surgery to decrease the risk of vomiting and then aspirating the stomach contents, which can be life-threatening. Listen to the vet.

During the vet visit

As with any medical appointment, it is important that you be on time for your pet’s veterinary appointment. If something happens that causes you to be late for your appointment, you probably can’t help it, but then phone the vet practice to let them know you are going to be late and confirm the time when you will arrive. If you are late, it’s not the vet’s fault, so don’t expect them to see you immediately when you arrive late. You may have to wait a while before the next open appointment slot. Again, patience and courteousness will ensure you, the vet and your pet have a good experience under the circumstances.

Be your pet’s voice

If you come prepared with the abovementioned information regarding your pet’s symptoms and timelines, it will help the vet to get to the most accurate diagnosis. If the vet needs further evidence, there are palpation and blood tests that can be done, and X-rays and other diagnostic tools that can be used. But the more information you can give, the better, as you know your pet the best.

DO NOT WITHOLD INFORMATION from the vet out of fear that it will make you look bad. For example: many pet owners of obese pets leave out the part where their pet eats table scraps or they can’t resist giving their pets treats or human snacks. Be honest about your pet’s diet and behaviour as this will allow the vet to give your pet the best treatment to restore their health.

Ask for clarity if you don’t understand

When the vet makes a diagnosis and explains it to you, they will try to communicate as best they can what’s going on with your pet. If you don’t understand the veterinary terms and need a better explanation, tell the vet so they can break it down. This communication is vital so that you can understand your pet’s condition and both administer the treatment (where necessary) and change your pet’s behaviour (if necessary). If you don’t understand or if the vet does not explain it well, it’s not in your pet’s best interests to leave the appointment without total clarity.

Home treatment

If your pet’s diagnosis requires you to administer treatment at home and you are inexperienced or uncomfortable with the process, ask the vet for help or clarity. The vet will not expect you to automatically know how to (for example) administer eye or ear drops, change bandages or give your pet oral or topical medication. If you ask for help, they will appreciate that you are actively involved in and dedicated to your pet’s healing or health management.

What if your pet requires hospitalisation?

Make sure the vet practice has your most up-to-date contact information and make sure you are available to receive calls while your pet is in hospital. There are few things more frustrating to a vet than urgently trying to get hold of a pet parent and they are not available or their contact details are incorrect. Make sure you are easily contactable.

After the vet visit

Pay your invoice. The vet has delivered the service for which you called on them, so don’t delay in paying for that service. Like any other business, the vet practice costs a lot of money to run, so when you use the vet’s service for the wellbeing of your pet, it’s only logical that you pay for it timeously and not put the practice under financial pressure.

Follow home treatment instructions to the T

If the vet has given you medication to use to treat your pet, like a course of antibiotics, make sure you administer the medication properly. Make sure your pet finishes the course of antibiotics to avoid the risk of reinfection or complications that may result in an emergency. For any other medication, if the instructions are one pill twice a day, follow those instructions. If you have any doubts after a day or two of treatment, don’t change the treatment at your own discretion – phone the vet to discuss any concerns.

If the vet places your pet on a new diet (for obesity, food allergies, sensitive tummy, or any other medical reason), DO NOT alter that diet. Many pet parents give in to their cat’s mewling or their dog’s pleading eyes for a treat or a bit of human food, thinking they will win their pet’s love with food, when they are actually jeopardising their pet’s health and can even cause them harm. Always follow the vet’s instructions.

Share the care

Work with the vet to care for your beloved pets. They do the best they can to ensure your pet is healthy and happy, as do you, so let that be the goal in your experience with any veterinary practice. Open communication, courtesy and respect go a long way to ensuring your pet’s wellbeing.

© 2021 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

How that cute puppy came to cost you R 150 000

We are approaching that time of year when people are considering what to gift people for Christmas and as is often the case, a cute puppy or kitten comes to mind. Many people do the noble thing of going to a shelter or a welfare organisation to adopt a puppy or kitten for a mere R 650. What they fail to realise is that that cute puppy or kitten is not just a R 650 worth purchase but more likely a R 65 000.00 one, or in some cases up to a R 150 000. How is that possible or what do you mean, you might ask?

Primary healthcare

For starters, that cute puppy or kitten will need at least three- to four initial vaccinations to protect them from some fatal diseases. To that, you can add a required dose of monthly deworming, to ensure that the lifecycle of the worms is properly broken. The cost of this exercise could easily set you back anything from R 2000 to R 3000.

Depending on the season of the year you acquire your puppy or kitten, they are going to need regular (at least monthly) tick and flea treatments for at least three to six months, in succession. Depending on the products you use; and the size of your dog or cat, this exercise will likely cost you anywhere between R 500 and R 1200.

Pet Accessories

Recommended accessories when adopting a new puppy or kitten include a bed or basket, a sandbox for kitties, a collar and lead for your dogs, brushes, bowls, and toys. There goes another R 2000 to R 10 000. Indoor cats will need cat litter for the rest of their lives. The cost over your cat’s lifespan (20 years) will likely be in the order of R 18 000.00. Puppies that are kept indoors will need training pads for the first three to six months; these can cost you about R 1300.

Puppy training is a crucial part of socialising and integrating your dog into your family and society in general. The cost of a training program, including travel to and from classes once a week, will most likely set you back between R 5000 and R 8000.

Sterilisation

When your pup or kitten is six months old, they need to be spayed or neutered. In female animals, this is a full ovariohysterectomy and this procedure is heavily subsidised by most vets, assisting the public in preventing unwanted pregnancies. The true cost of this operation, which is a full-blown surgical procedure done under general anaesthesia and inside a sterile operating theatre, is in the order of R 4000 to R 4500. Most vets, however, charge somewhere between R 1200 to R 2500 for this procedure.

Food

By far the most expensive items for your puppy or kitten throughout their lives will be their food. Here, there is a range of prices depending on the quality of food you feed. The general principle here is that the more expensive the food is, the better the quality and usually the better condition your pet will be in and the longer they will live. Size really matters and the cost of a super premium diet for a small breed dog weighing 5 kg or less, will be in the order of R 80 000 over its lifetime (15 years) whereas the cost per day for a large breed dog 30 kg will be R 190 000 over its lifetime (12 years). The cost of feeding a premium diet to a small breed dog weighing 5 kg or less, will be in the order of R 53 000 over its lifetime (15 years) whereas the cost per day, for a large breed dog weighing 30 kg, will be R 180 000. Feeding a poor quality pet food is going to cost less, but your animal may, as a result, not be in optimal health condition and can be prone to diseases.

Annual Wellness exams

Dogs and cats age on average the equivalent of seven human years for every calendar year. When your puppy or kitten grows into a mature dog or cat, they will need to see the vet for an annual health and wellness exam and vaccination if required. This visit is the equivalent of seeing your doctor every seven years. Most people, especially ageing people, need to see their doctor more frequently. The same principle of frequent doctor’s visits applies to your pets too and these annual visits to the vet will set you back roughly R 15 000 over the lifetime of a pet with a 15-year lifespan.

Veterinary care

Veterinary expenses remain a significant contributor to the total expenditure on a pet. You may be lucky and have an extremely healthy pet that may only need to see the vet once a year for their annual wellness exam.

If however, you are unlucky and have a pet that sustains a severe injury that needs intensive veterinary intervention and care, like bite wounds, being hit by a car or tearing a knee ligament, the cost of treatment may easily set you back anywhere between R 10 000 and R 30 000.

If your pet develops a condition that either needs ongoing treatment or a therapeutic diet, the cost may be anywhere between R 5000 and R 50 000. Veterinary care, like human medical care, is not cheap. Vets study for six years and veterinary medicine happens to be one of the most expensive veterinary courses available.

Most veterinary hospitals or clinics have to have the same equipment you will find in most human hospitals like X-ray machines, fully equipped operating theatres, laboratories, dentistry suites and special care equipment and facilities. The cost of setting up and equipping a veterinary hospital can easily be between R 1 mil to R 2 mil, excluding the cost of the physical property.

Compared to what humans pay in private medical hospitals, the cost of having a pet admitted to a private veterinary hospital is minuscule. However, most people still don’t have medical aid for their pets like they do for themselves, which means that should disaster strike and intensive veterinary care is needed, all of those costs need to be paid from discretionary, “leftover” income, something which is indeed almost non-existent for most people.

Dental care

The recommended norm for humans to see a dentist is every six months. An annual wellness exam for your dog or cat will be the equivalent of a seven-year gap to see the doctor or dentist, in the case of humans.

As animals get older, most of them develop plaque that calcifies, forming calculi on the teeth. The only way to treat this effectively, other than preventing it by brushing your pet’s teeth daily, is to have it removed by ultrasonic dental descaling under a full general anaesthetic. The cost of this procedure is in the order of R 3000 to R 4000. Many vets also subsidise this procedure to make it more affordable for pet owners to have their pets’ teeth cleaned.

Summary

For the sake of this article, we have worked on an annual inflation rate of 5%. As rates fluctuate, so do prices, and it may either cost you significantly more to own a pet in times of high inflation or less in times of lower inflation. Either way, it should be clear to anyone wanting to adopt a pet to remember that it is not a R 650 transaction but more likely a R 150 000 transaction.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd