My cat is eating like crazy and not picking up weight

What is hyperthyroidism?

Hyperthyroidism is a condition that arises from an excessive production and secretion of active thyroid hormones by an abnormally functioning thyroid gland. First recognised in the late 1970’s, the frequency of diagnosis has escalated dramatically – currently it is the most common endocrine (hormone system) disease in cats and also one of the more frequently diagnosed disorders in the veterinary field. The condition is estimated to affect 1 in 300 cats.

What causes hyperthyroidism?

Despite several studies, the exact cause of the disease remains unknown. Recent studies have found that there is no breed association with risk. Other studies have found cats fed mostly tinned cat food, especially fish or liver and giblet flavour, and cats using cat litter are at increased risk.

Soybeans have also been implicated as a potential culprit as it is used as a protein source in some commercial cat foods. Furthermore, the thyroid gland contains more selenium than any other tissue, which suggests this trace element may play an important role.

Which cats are affected?

The disease typically affects middle-aged to older cats, with an average age of onset at 12-13 years.  Rarely can it affect cats as young as 4 years of age. There is no breed or gender predilection.

What are the clinical signs of hyperthyroidism?

Thyroid hormones are involved in a wide variety of functions in the body, including the regulation of heat production, metabolism and interaction with the nervous system. Therefore almost any organ system can be affected and subsequently a wide variety of clinical signs are possible.

Typically the signs start out very subtle and slowly progress, causing most owners to not notice them for several months. Some owners may also put these signs down to the normal “ageing” process.

The most common clinical sign is weight loss, despite a voracious appetite. Affected cats may seem constantly hungry and “finicky eaters” stop being “finicky”, eating everything that is offered to them or that they can get to.

Affected cats often gobble down their own food before going on to eat all the other pets in the household’s food as well; they may even try to steal your food off your plate if given the chance. Remember that cats are a lot smaller than us humans – losing for example 500g is not significant weight loss for a human but for a cat it’s about 10-20% of their total body weight and definitely a cause for concern.

Affected cats also become hyperactive – they may seem restless, anxious and irritable, constantly moving or even pacing, sleeping for short periods only and wakening easily. When brought to the vet these cats typically won’t sit for the vet to examine them and become aggressive when attempts are made to restrain them.

Affected cats are also weak and tire very quickly – you may notice it can’t jump as well as it used to. They also can’t cope with stress – short car rides, bathing, boarding or vet visits may weaken them severely or even cause them to collapse.

The digestive system may also be affected, causing vomiting, soft, bulky, stinky stools and sometimes even diarrhoea.

How is hyperthyroidism diagnosed?

Hyperthyroidism can cause a wide variety of clinical signs, many of which can be caused by several other disease processes as well. Vets may perform several tests on your cat to rule out, amongst others, diabetes, kidney disease, heart disease, pancreatic disease and cancer. These tests may include blood tests, urine analysis, X-rays and even an electrocardiogram or ECG.

The diagnosis is confirmed by measuring the amount of thyroid hormone circulating in the cat’s blood.   Affected cats’ values may be up to 19 times more than the top normal value.

It is worth noting that up to 10% of affected cats may have borderline or even normal levels of thyroid hormone. These cats are either mildly affected or are suffering from another non related concurrent illness which is suppressing the thyroid levels. Therefore, the vet may decide that a single measurement is not enough to either rule in or – out thyroid disease and may recommend additional tests.

How is hyperthyroidism in cats treated?

Affected cats are generally started on anti-thyroid medication to stop the excessive secretion of thyroid hormones. The medication can be given between one and three times a day. The vet will typically start on a certain dose and repeat the thyroid hormone levels by doing a blood test after two weeks from commencing treatment.

Depending on the result, the dose may be increased or decreased and the blood tests repeated again after two weeks. This process will continue until the thyroid hormone levels return to the normal range. Once this is achieved, thyroid blood levels will need to be retested every 3 to 6 months or whenever otherwise indicated. 

The success of the therapy will mostly depend on you, the owner, as you will be the one tasked with administering the medication. It is important that you stick to the prescribed dosage and return to the vet for scheduled follow-ups or whenever your cat shows any signs of illness.

Cats are notoriously hard to pill! If you find it impossible to administer the medication, let the vet know as soon as possible – we will be happy to show you how to give the medication or help you come up with an alternative.

In some cases the vet may opt to surgically remove either one or both of the thyroid glands. Generally, the procedure cures the disease, but there is always a risk of it recurring – therefor the vet may want to monitor the progression of the disease every 6 to 12 months; if it recurs the cat will have to go onto medication again.

The vet may also recommend a diet change as there are therapeutic diets which have been specifically developed for this condition.

The last option is destruction of the thyroid gland via radioactive iodine, which is currently not readily available in South Africa.

What’s the connection between hyperthyroidism and kidney disease?

Hyperthyroid cats are predisposed to kidney disease due to the effects of the higher metabolism on the kidneys. Conversely, the higher metabolism also masks the signs of kidney failure. Consequently these cats often start showing signs of kidney failure once their thyroid condition is brought under control.

The vet may decide to monitor you cat’s kidney enzyme levels along with the thyroid levels in order to diagnose kidney failure as early as possible.

What’s the connection between hyperthyroidism and heart disease?

Hyperthyroid cats are prone to developing heart murmurs, abnormally fast heart rates and abnormal heart rhythms. The vet may notice these abnormalities when listening to the heart with a stethoscope.

The excessive amount of circulating thyroid hormone makes the heart work harder than normal, which is further worsened by having to keep up with the cat’s higher metabolic rate. Over time the heart muscle starts thickening and/or the heart chambers start dilating to increase their size in an attempt to cope with the increased workload.

Congestive heart failure sets in eventually when the heart cannot keep up anymore fluids starts building up in the lungs and/or the abdomen.

If the vet suspects heart disease, he or she may decide to investigate further with ECGs, ultrasonic heart scans and X-rays. Depending on the findings, the cat may have to go onto heart medication as well.

What is the prognosis for hyperthyroidism in my cat?

The prognosis will depend on the cat’s physical condition, age, and whether other diseases are present. When treated, the average survival rate is 2 years and the quality of life is acceptable.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

My Dog is Pregnant

Is my dog pregnant?

In the days before high walls and fences in South Africa, it was quite common for dogs to roam around freely in cities and towns; and it was not uncommon to discover out of the blue, that your female dog at home may be pregnant without you knowing how she fell pregnant.

Having said that, in those days most people who had an un-spayed (unsterilized) bitch at home, would have known very well that she was “in season” or “on heat”, which is the time the female dog is ready to ovulate and mate, because the whole neighbourhoods’ male dogs would have been howling at the door for “a piece of the action”.

Male dogs can smell bitches in heat up to 3 kilometres away and not spaying a female dog you do not want to breed with, can leave intact male dogs in agony because of nature’s drive to mate when there is a female in season. Some of this is still happening in informal settlements in South Africa in this day and age and therefore there is strong drive from welfare and community-driven organisations like the Community Veterinary Clinics of the South African Veterinary Association, to sterilise as many pets as possible and prevent unwanted litters.

These days, most people who do not sterilise their pets, because they are planning to breed with them, will know exactly when their bitches are on heat and will have full knowledge of when the mating takes place and when the puppies can be expected.

Bitches are usually on heat for 10 to 14 days. In the first week, they are very attractive to male dogs but, will not allow mating and even turn around and try to bite male dogs who try to mate with them. The second week of being on heat they are as attractive to male dogs as the first and will readily allow a male dog to mate with them and even seek out a male to mate with during this time period.

It is quite possible for a bitch to mate several times in the second week of their heat season. It is also possible for a litter of puppies to have different fathers. The male dog’s sperm can stay active inside the female dog’s genital tract for up to 7 days after mating.  

How long is pregnancy in dogs?

Dogs have a gestation period or said in another way, dogs are on average pregnant for 63 days.  

How do I know my dog is pregnant or how far my dog is pregnant?

If one is not sure whether your female dog was covered (or mated) with a male dog when she was on heat, there are other ways to confirm the pregnancy. To diagnose the pregnancy, an ultrasound can be performed from the 25th day after breeding. Alternatively, blood progesterone levels can be measured from the 34th day onwards. The average duration of pregnancy is 63-64 days from the date of breeding but can range from 56 to 72 days.

At around the Day 45, the vet may recommend that you bring your bitch for a check-up and X-rays, to determine how many puppies she is carrying. An ultrasound is not a reliable way to determine how many puppies your bitch is carrying and the fail-safe method to determine the number of puppies in a pregnancy, is through  X-ray.

What happens before my dog gives birth?

As the pregnancy progresses, you will notice that your bitch will gradually start eating more than usual and will start eating a lot more once the puppies are born and nursing from her. Do make provision for the requirement of more food for her but, try to feed her smaller meals more often rather, than one or two large meals per day. A small or medium breed (not large breed) puppy food from a reputable brand will provide her with all the nutrients she needs during this time. Do not give her any supplements without discussing it with a vet first. Supplementing with, for example, calcium or vitamin D can actually increase the risk of complications and is usually not recommended.

Two weeks before her estimated due date, purchase a thermometer from any pharmacy and start taking her rectal temperature at the same time every day; ideally twice a day. The tip of the thermometer can be lubricated with K-Y jelly or similar inert lubricant before being inserted into the rear end. A temperature of between 37.5°C and 39.5°C is normal for a dog. Yes, dogs are on average 1.5 °C  warmer than humans. Typically the bitch’s temperature will suddenly drop by 1 to 3°C, 12 to 24 hours before she goes into labour.

Whelping – what is normal?

Most dogs are able to give birth naturally without any assistance or complications but it is useful to know what to expect and when intervention is needed.

When the whelping process begins, the bitch will first enter stage 1 of labour, where her cervix begins to dilate to allow the puppies to pass through the birth canal. She will appear restless and uncomfortable – pacing, shivering, panting and whining. She will probably not eat and may even vomit. She may also search for a quiet, secluded spot and create a nest to whelp in. This stage can last anything from 3 to 24 hours.

Thereafter the bitch will enter stage 2 of labour, where the placental sacs tear and release straw-coloured fluid (her “water breaks”) and uterine contractions begin. Each puppy has its own set of foetal membranes. The puppies are delivered, on average, every 30 to 60 minutes. The bitch may also “rest” between puppies for to 4 to 6 hours, during which no contractions occur. Once a puppy is delivered, its mother will bite off its umbilical cord and lick it clean – it is important that she is allowed to do this as it stimulates the puppy’s breathing and helps the mother to bond with the puppy and produce milk.

If the mother doesn’t perform these crucial steps within 3 minutes you may have to intervene and do it yourself. Use some clean thread to tie a tight knot around the umbilical cord approximately 2.5cm away from the puppy. Use a clean pair of scissors to cut the umbilical cord about 1cm away from the knot towards the bitch’s end. Clear all the membranes and fluid away from the puppy’s face, nose and mouth and rub its body vigorously with a soft, dry towel to stimulate breathing. Check that the puppy is alive by feeling for a heartbeat. Place your index finger (not your thumb) behind the puppy’s elbow for a few moments – if it is alive you will feel the heartbeat against your finger. If the puppy has a heartbeat but isn’t breathing, be patient, it may take up to 10 minutes to start breathing. If you need to help more than one puppy in this way, use a separate clean, dry, soft towel for each puppy. The puppies are very slippery when born and using a wet towel will make them even more slippery – you don’t want a puppy slipping out of your hands and falling.

The mother usually eats the afterbirth and this behaviour is normal, so do not interfere with this process or try and deter her from eating it.

Stage 3 starts once the puppy is delivered and ends when its foetal membranes are expelled. The bitch will alternate between stage 2 and 3 when there is more than one puppy.

How involved do I need to be in the whelping process?

It is important to understand that a bitch can interrupt the whelping process if she is frightened, nervous or disturbed. You will thus need to provide her with a quiet, secluded spot in which to whelp and keep disturbances to a minimum.

Check on her every few minutes and only disturb her when absolutely necessary. If either you or the bitch are generally nervous or anxious and you are worried that it will interfere with the whelping process, contact the vet and discuss it with us. In some instances it might be better for everyone to have the bitch hospitalised and the process monitored by professionals.

The puppies should be left with their mother at all times and handled as little as possible. Newborn puppies are very cute and the temptation to cuddle them is often very high, but handling them too much will affect the bonding process with their mother negatively.

When should you call the vet?

Phone your vet as soon as possible when you notice any of the following:

  • 20 to 30 minutes of active contractions but no puppy is delivered
  • More than 4 hours pass since the birth of the last puppy and you suspect or know that there are more
  • No puppies have been delivered 24 to 36 hours after the rectal temperature has dropped
  • The bitch cries and licks or bites at her rear end during whelping
  • The bitch fails to enter stage 2 of labour after 8 to 12 hours of being in stage 1
  • The pregnancy progresses beyond the due date – beyond 70-72 days from the first breeding.
  • No puppies are born 2 hours after lochia or water-like discharges were first seen (see below)

Discharges of different colours– what is normal and when should you worry?

Greenish, with or without small amounts of blood: As the bitch enters stage 2, the uterus (womb) and the placenta surrounding the foetus separate from each other to allow the foetus to be born and the placenta to be expelled. This causes the greenish discharge, called lochia, and is normal.

Watery or egg white-like: Indicates that the bitch is starting to give birth. You may even see a water-filled bubble or balloon protruding from the vulva. These are the fluids that surrounded the foetus during its development and are normal.

Red: It is normal for the lochia to contain small amounts of blood. If you think that there is a lot of blood or are worried about anything, rather phone the vet and discuss it with us. Once whelping is completed, the bitch may have a bloody discharge for up to 6 weeks. This is due to the uterus involuting i.e. reconstructing and shrinking back to its pre-pregnancy size and state.

The bitch should have a normal temperature and not be showing any signs of illness during the time – if this is not the case she needs to be examined by a vet as soon as possible.

Stinky, yellowish-white or brown: The discharge contains pus, which indicates there is an infection in either the uterus or vagina. This is not normal and the bitch should be brought in to the vet for examination as soon as possible.

The birth of new puppies is a wonderful experience to go through and with the correct information at hand, you will be able to know when to assist your bitch or when to just leave her and let nature take its course.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

My Collie is bumping into things and seems to have difficulty with its eye sight

What is Collie eye anomaly?

Collie Eye Anomaly is an inherited condition affecting both eyes of many different Collie type breeds of dogs. Interesting to note, that not only Collie breeds are affected but also some other breeds. Affected breeds include Rough and Smooth Collies, the Shetland Sheepdog, the Australian Shepherd, the Border Collie, the Lancashire Heeler, and the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. 

The region of the eye affected by this genetic condition is called the choroid. The choroid is the layers of blood vessels and pigment between the sensory membrane that lines the inner surface of the back of the eyeball (the retina) and the outer white covering of the eye (the sclera). The locations of all the parts being described can be seen in the image below. 

The primary lesion is typically the underdevelopment of the choroid called hypoplasia, which results in the appearance of a pale spot on the back surface of the eye when looking through the pupil. More severe consequences may occur such as retinal detachment or bleeding in the eye, both of which may lead to blindness. The back part of the eye where the main nerve that runs from the brain the eye comes into the eye is called the optic disc. With Collie Eye Anomaly one will often find small areas of indentations next to the optic disc. These indentations look like holes in the structure of the eye and are also described as colobomas. The degree to which an individual animal may be affected varies considerably, from very mild, to severe enough that eyesight may be lost completely. The lesions are not progressive and normally do not worsen over time. Mildly affected dogs will just have the pale spot seen on the side of the optic disc. There will be no impact on the dog’s ability to see and the pale spots may be seen in very young puppies and not in adults. The choroidal blood vessels may be reduced in number and abnormal in shape. Up to 25% of dogs that are severely affected will have severe complications that result in significant vision loss. These include the retinal detachment (loosening of the membrane at the back of the eye), bleeding (ocular haemorrhage) and colobomas. This can happen in these severely affected dogs before two years of age and the severity in both eyes may differ. It is very rare for only one eye to be affected by this condition Although this condition does affect vision, it is fairly rare for a dog to be completely blind in both eyes.

How does a dog get Collie Eye Anomaly?

Collie Eye Anomaly is a fairly common condition in affected breeds that has its roots in breeding with affected animals who have not been identified as carriers of the genetic defect responsible. The single most important fact to remember is that Collie Eye Anomaly is genetic and all affected dogs can pass the disorder on to their offspring. It is therefore essential that regardless of the severity of the condition in any individual dog, that they should not be used for breeding. All dogs from affected breeds should be clinically examined and genetically tested before breeding to avoid this unwanted condition to be passed onto their offspring. 

How is Collie Eye Anomaly diagnosed?

Diagnosis of this condition is generally confirmed through an ophthalmic (eye) examination by a veterinary eye specialist (veterinary ophthalmologist). The back of the eye is examined through an ophthalmoscope and an area of pallor is identified. This may be done from as early as 5 – 8 weeks of age. As the puppy grows, the retina becomes more pigmented and this may mask the changes in the choroid which means that the eye exam at an older age may appear to be normal, yet the dog still has the condition and is still a carrier of the gene which causes this condition. It is for this reason that all puppies must be examined at a young age, especially if they may be used for breeding later in life. Another fact to understand is that even a mildly affected dog may produce offspring that can be severely affected. 

There is also a genetic test available that may be used by vets and breeders to avoid transmission of the disease to the next generation.

How does Collie Eye Anomaly spread?

Having established that Collie Eye Anomaly is a genetic condition where the structure of gene changes (known as a mutation), fortunately, the gene mutation responsible for the defect has been identified. This mutation is found on chromosome 37 on dogs. This is a recessive mutation. A recessive gene is a gene that can be masked by a dominant gene. To have a trait that is expressed by a recessive gene, both parents must pass on the mutated chromosome for the condition to be clinically apparent. 

How is Collie Eye Anomaly treated?

Unfortunately, there is no treatment for Collie Eye Anomaly. The best way to prevent this in our dogs is to take part in conscientious responsible breeding, testing all animal from a young age and only breeding with dogs that are negative for both clinical signs and absent genetic mutation. This is our only weapon in the battle against a condition that can be very debilitating to affected pets and it is our responsibility to ensure we aim to breed for the health of our dogs above any other trait that may be deemed desirable.

What is the prognosis if my dog is diagnosed with Collie Eye Anomaly?

The prognosis of Collie Eye Anomaly depends on the extent to which the individual dog is affected. The condition does not normally progress however in early severe cases the indentations (colobomas) around the optic disc where the eye nerve enters the eye from the brain may lead to retinal detachment, which will make the condition severe at an early stage and lead to complete blindness which may lead to euthanasia. If the condition is not so severe and there is partial loss of sight, the dog will learn to cope with the partial loss of sight and will be able to live a good quality life. 

Conclusion

It is very important to have any Collie type breed dogs tested for this Collie Eye Anomaly at a very young age (between 6 and 8 weeks of age), so if you do get a puppy that falls in this category of breeds, speak to the vet to set up an appointment with a veterinary eye specialist, to have the test done. A more ideal situation would be to request a certificate from the breeder that you obtain your puppy from, issued by a veterinary ophthalmologist, confirming that the necessary examination and tests have been performed and that the puppy you are obtaining does not have Collie Eye Anomaly. 

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

From Kitten to Cat

Tiny fuzz-balls of cuteness – the perfect description for every kitten. We cannot resist them creeping into our hearts. 

You have brought your new kitten home and realise it is dependent on you for its every need. For the kitten, the world is huge, brand new and can be a bit scary. Every sight, sound, smell, person and animal are a new experience. These first experiences are likely to influence their future behaviour.

Kittens learn first from imitating their mothers, then through trial and error. The bulk of their learning occurs from birth to six months, although learning and training is still possible as an adult.

The communication behaviours, specific to felines, are established early on in life. This is known as the socialisation period which starts from about 2 weeks after birth until about 16 weeks of age. 

During this time, it is important to provide the kitten with an ‘enriched environment’. In other words, they need different stimuli that will arouse their senses and spark their intelligence. 

Expose your kitten to different noises, textures and objects, much as you would a newborn human baby; and interact with them as much as you can. 

Good early socialisation leads to friendly, well-adjusted adult cats which are less likely to be scared. Sadly, without positive early experiences, cats can become nervous, which often leads to behavioural problems. 

It is good to choose a kitten that has had good socialisation from the breeder or owner of the litter. The kitten would normally still be at home with its mother and should have mixed with other people and pets, seen everyday sights and heard normal household sounds at the breeder- or owner’s home.

The Life of a Kitten

Let’s go through the life of a kitten from birth to 18 months.

Birth to 2 weeks: Your kitten learns to orient toward sound. Their eyes begin to open, they are usually open by 2 to 3 weeks of age.

2 to 7 weeks: Your kitten becomes social. By the third week, their sense of smell is well-developed, and your kitten can see well enough to find its mother. 

Cats can only detect the colours blue and green with certainty but require six times less light to see than humans. This is why they move excellently at night because they distinguish depth better than humans in the dark. 

Cats’ noses can detect a single molecule of odour whereas humans need several hundred. This makes for an extremely sensitive sense of smell. By the fourth week, their sense of smell is fully mature and their sense of hearing is well-developed. 

Feline ears can detect minute changes in frequency and tone making this an extra sensitive sense as well. Your kitten will learn to differentiate your voice from any other, adding to the bond between owner and pet. The kitten starts to interact with littermates and can walk fairly well. The teeth start to come in. 

By the fifth week, eyesight is well developed, and kitten can right itself, run, place its feet precisely, avoid obstacles, stalk and pounce and catch “prey” with its eyes. Kitten starts to groom itself and others. 

By the sixth and seventh weeks, kitten begins to develop different sleeping patterns, motor skills and social interaction abilities. Kittens are usually weaned at eight to nine weeks, but they may continue to suckle for comfort as their mother gradually leaves them for longer periods. 

Now is a good time to expose the kittens to different textured food to prevent them becoming fussy eaters. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon, are more likely to exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviours later in life, such as sucking on blankets, pillows or your arm.

Ideally, kittens should stay with their littermates or other “role-model” cats for at least 12 weeks but it is safe to take them away from their mother by eight to nine weeks of age.

7 to 14 weeks: This is the age when your kitten will play the most. Social and object play increases kitten’s physical coordination and social skills. Most learning is by observation, preferably of their mother’s behaviour. Social play includes belly-ups, hugging, ambushing and licking. 

Object play includes scooping, tossing, pawing, mouthing and holding. Combined social/object play includes tail chasing, pouncing, leaping and dancing. 

Cats are generally curious creatures and quickly learn that food comes from refrigerators or countertops. Now is a good time to teach the kitten not to jump up. A stern “no” accompanied with a sharp sound like clapping will teach your kitten that this is unacceptable behaviour. 

It is difficult for felines to differentiate between which tables they are or aren’t allowed on to. For this reason, it should be an “all or nothing” rule. Remember to not hit your kitten as this may cause fear in your pet and lead to unwanted or aggressive behaviours. 

Toys come in handy at this stage of life. Any toy that encourages chasing and hunting-type behaviour is beneficial. It need not be expensive but can be as simple as a piece of paper folded in a block, tied to a string and dragged on the floor. 

Scratching, or ‘claw conditioning’ is a natural part of cat behaviour. It keeps their claws healthy and leaves scent marks. Try a scratching post for your cat to help prevent damage to your furniture or carpets. Ensure it's stable and tall enough for your cat to exercise at full body stretch.

3 to 6 months: Your kitten starts ranking the household and is most influenced by her ”tribe”, which may now include playmates of other species. 

Kitten begins to see and use ranking (dominance or submission) within the household, including humans. Your kitten will identify your home as its territory and will organise its life around this area. 

Kittens tend to prefer areas with a layout that offers opportunities to play, be up high and hide away, compared to a bare space. Within its territory, the kitten will have four distinct areas: the eating area, an area for rest, the toilet and a large area for play.

You should try to not disrupt this organisation, or your kitten could develop behavioural problems. The eating area should not be near the toilet area or your own eating area. 

If possible, avoid the kitchen or dining room so that your kitten does not confuse your meals with theirs, which could lead to a nutritional imbalance. 

The position of the rest area changes depending on where the best heat sources are and your kitten will probably choose to rest near a heater or in the sun. If you have a sleeping basket, position it in a warm place near you, as your kitten will enjoy being close to you. 

Choose an area away from the kitten’s food for the toilet area. The litter box should be easily accessible. If necessary, have a few positioned around the house. Gradually move the litter closer to the door and then outside if you would like to train your kitten to eliminate outside. 

The play area is the largest of the four and ideally provides ample opportunities for playing, racing about and climbing up high. 

Cats adore places where they can be at the same level as your face and rub against you as they would another cat so your kitten will be prone to jumping on beds, couches, tables or cupboards to be closer to you.

6 to 12 months: Your kitten is an adolescent and will increase the exploration of dominance, including challenging humans. Sexual behaviour begins now if your kitten has not been spayed, if a girl, or neutered, if a boy.

Kittens orphaned or separated from their mother and/or littermates too early often fail to develop appropriate ”social skills” such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an ”inhibited bite” (acceptable mouthing pressure) means, how far to go in play-wrestling and so forth. 

Play is important for kittens because it increases their physical coordination, social skills and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates, kittens explore the ranking process ”who’s in charge” and also learn ”how to be a cat”.

While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a cat’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood. Most cats are still kittens, in mind and body, through the first two years of life.

Remember to take your kitten for vaccinations at 6 – 8 weeks of age with a booster vaccination after a month. A 3-in-1 vaccine is given, which treats for the 3 most common and contagious diseases in one vaccine. 

At 3 months old, your kitten will receive their first Rabies vaccine with a booster required a month later. Deworming can be done from the time they are 2 weeks old and repeated bi-weekly (2-week intervals) until they are 6 weeks old. 

The vet will give a dewormer at every vaccination. This is a good time to get your little one used to go to the vet. Try to make it a positive experience as well using treats and play. Good associations at the vet could save stressful experiences for everyone later on. 

It is important to make it a lifelong relationship and the most pleasurable experience for all Involved. Do not hesitate to call your veterinarian for advice or questions on your new kitten.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

 

My cat has suddenly gone lame in her hindquarters and seems to be in a lot of pain

What is Feline Aortic Thromboembolism?

Feline Aortic Thromboembolism (ATE) is a condition in cats where a big blood clot settles and blocks the main artery (the aorta) running from the heart to the cat’s hind legs.  The clot typically settles near the pelvis, where the aorta divides into the two main arteries that extend into the legs.

It is almost like the clot itself has two legs extending down into the two main arteries. This type of clot is known as a “saddle clot” or “saddle thrombus”. This condition is typically associated with heart disease in cats.

ATE most commonly occurs in cats with an enlarged left chamber (atrium). The enlarged heart chamber slows down blood flow and over time the red blood cells start clumping together and form a blood clot.

The blood clot is then pushed out of the heart and down the aorta, where it lodges at the point where the aorta branches into the two main arteries (external iliac arteries) extending into the legs. As a result of the clot obstructing the artery, the blood supply to the hind legs is cut off.

What are the symptoms of a saddle thrombus in cats?

  • Sudden Lameness/ Unsteadiness in the hind legs
  • Decreased Activity
  • Over Vocalisation (Painful ‘Meowing’)

Up to 90% of cats show no signs of heart disease before developing this condition and owners often suspect trauma. If the owner is not present right at the onset of the condition, they may come home from work and find their cat paralysed in the hindquarters and dragging its body forward with the front legs. In such instances, it makes perfect sense that one would suspect that the cat had been run over by a car.

When presented to the vet, the tell-tale signs are usually that the hind leg muscles are swollen and very painful to touch. The legs are also cool to the touch because the warm oxygen-rich blood from the heart cannot be pumped down to the legs.

The nail beds will also either be very pale or very dark. With the blood being blocked higher up, the femoral arteries, which are the main arteries on the inside of the leg taking blood to the paws, will have no pulse. The vet will try and feel this pulse on the inside of the hind legs to establish if any blood is still coming through to the legs.

The cat’s rectal temperature will be abnormally low. Many cats are still able to move their tails and control their bladder and stool functions, however, skin sensation and neurological functions i.e. reflexes are absent. Signs of heart failure (heart murmur, difficulty breathing) may accompany the signs.

How is a saddle thrombus diagnosed?

The condition is mostly diagnosed on the typical clinical signs, but to further confirm the diagnosis the vet may cut one of the toenails down to the quick to see if any blood is coming through to the extremities. With a saddle thrombus, the cut nail will either ooze dark blood or not bleed at all.

The vet may also recommend taking radiographs, performing an ECG or doing an echocardiogram (heart scan) with ultrasound to assess the extent off the condition and potential underlying heart failure.

Occasionally the blood clot may lodge further up the aorta and occlude the blood flow to the kidneys as well, in which case the vet may recommend blood tests to evaluate the kidney function.

How is Feline Aortic Thromboembolism treated?

The condition is often treated through cage rest, pain control and drugs which counter blood clots from forming (often in humans referred to as “blood thinners”) and arterial dilators.

Due to the severe pain that this condition causes, Opioids (morphine/fentanyl class) are usually the drugs of choice for controlling the pain. Additionally, the vet may decide to lightly sedate the cat if it is very distressed.

Blood-thinning drugs may theoretically prevent further blood clot formation, while ACP or hydralazine might dilate the blood vessels to aid blood flow to the affected areas. There is however no evidence that these drugs have any benefit over cage rest alone.

Surgical removal of the blood clot carries very high risks and is generally not performed. The concurrent heart failure will also need to be managed. The cat may be kept on a drip for a while and the vet will prescribe medications for it to take for the rest of its life.

If the cat survives past the first few days, it will start regaining its limb function after 10-14 days and will be fully recovered after 4-6 weeks. Some residual deficits may be permanent.

Several drugs such as aspirin, heparin, warfarin have been suggested to prevent blood clots forming in cats diagnosed with heart disease, however, there is no evidence of these drugs being effective and the side effects can be quite severe; thus your vet might opt not to use them at all.

It is important to NEVER use human medication for the treatment of cats unless the vet has prescribed it. Some human medicines like Panado is fatal to cats and one should never treat your cat with a human medication unless it was prescribed by a vet.

If the condition is left unattended, the cat may become permanently paralysed and the skin and muscles may start dying off. This may result in wounds needing surgical treatment or even amputation of a leg. In severe cases, additional blood clots may lodge at various points throughout the rest of the body, ultimately leading to death.

What is the prognosis of a saddle thrombus in cats?

The prognosis is generally guarded, with only 33-50% of affected cats surviving and recovering well enough to be discharged from the hospital. Unfortunately, recurrence of the condition is very common.

Due to the guarded prognosis, the high risk of recurrence, and the presence of heart failure, the decision to euthanise your cat (put to sleep) is often the most humane option.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

My cat’s eyes are swollen and teary

What is conjunctivitis?

Conjunctivitis is the inflammation of the conjunctiva. The conjunctiva is the thin semi-transparent mucous membrane lining the inside of the eyelids, covering the third eyelid. This membrane attaches to the globe of the eye at the level of the sclera (the white part of the eye). The back end of the word conjunctivitis (– itis) refers to inflammation which is a defense mechanism of the body and means swelling, redness, increased heat to the local area because of an increase in blood flow to the affected area, and pain or discomfort. Conjunctivitis is a very common condition affecting our household cats.

What causes conjunctivitis?

This condition is typically caused by infectious organisms such as viruses like Feline Herpes Virus or Feline rhinotracheitis virus or bacteria such as Chlamydophila Felis or Mycoplasma. Other causes can include trauma to the eye which most cats typically sustain through cat fights, immune-mediated conditions where the body overreacts to a stimulus and ends up causing more damage to itself, or sun damage especially in white cats with unpigmented eyelid margins. Infectious causes of conjunctivitis are the most common and are important to treat, but more importantly prevent, as the infection may spread from one cat to another. Infectious conjunctivitis is usually a condition affecting younger cats. Cats that may be at increased risk for infectious conjunctivitis include those that live in multi-cat households, cats taken to the kennels or a cattery, cats exposed to other sick animals at the vet, or free-roaming cats that come into contact with all the neighbourhood’s cats. Another risk factor for this condition is the presence of an underlying immunosuppressive condition such as FeLV (Feline leukemia virus) or FIV (Feline Aids) which predisposes affected cats to these infections due to their reduced ability to fight off infections.

Cancer of the conjunctiva more commonly affect older cats, typically cats with no pigment in their eyelid margins. Their eyelids are effectively sunburnt and the process starts off with inflammation of the eyelids causing conjunctivitis, and eventually progresses to full blown cancer.  If sun exposure can be restricted or contained, this condition can be prevented. 

What are the clinical symptoms of conjunctivitis?

Clinical signs may vary in degree and affect one or both eyes. Your cat may have painful red eyes, some discharge from the eye which may be either watery or pussy in later stages of the disease, and in severe cases the eye may even be closed due to excessive swelling of the conjunctiva. These signs may be recurrent and vary with severity during the course of the disease. With infectious causes such as viruses there are often signs and symptoms of other upper respiratory tract infections such as sneezing, discharge from the nose and a loss  of appetite partly due to a loss of smell.

How is conjunctivitis diagnosed?

Conjunctivitis is diagnosed by the veterinarian carefully examining the eye and all its adjacent structures and looking at all the different parts of the eye. What vets often look for is the presence of red inflamed conjunctiva, discharge from the eyes, signs of trauma or potential causes of the inflammation. If a cat with conjunctivitis is presented to the vet,  the vet may do certain tests to check other parts of the eye such as the cornea, tear duct function and even eyeball pressure. This is important to rule other eye conditions which also have conjunctivitis as a symptom, but requires a completely different approach to treatment. These tests include a fluorescein dye test, where a luminescent green dye is applied to check for any defects or ulcerations of the cornea (the glassy clear layer on the front of the eyeball through which the animal looks). Another test is the Schirmer tear test that checks the tear production and determines if your pet suffers from dry eye. Lastly, the vet may want to test the eye’s pressure to determine if glaucoma may be present. Glaucoma is a condition of increased pressure within the eyeball, causing gradual loss of sight. On some occasions, if treatment is not working, more in-depth procedures such as blood tests, biopsies and conjunctival samples for bacterial growth may be necessary to determine the underlying cause of the conjunctivitis.

How is conjunctivitis treated?

The treatment goals for any case of conjunctivitis in cats include treating the underlying cause, eliminating infection (if present/possible), and reducing pain and discomfort. If there is an underlying cause that has been identified, this will be treated. Generally the treatment entails eye drops that need to be given at home according to the vet’s instructions. On this note something many of us are guilty of is trying to self medicate our cats with human over the counter eye drops. This is not a good idea as some human medications are  contra-indicated in cats and by using the wrong medication we can actually do harm and make the condition worse. Always seek the advice of the vet before applying any medication. This also applies to eye drops prescribed by the vet previously or to another animal in the house hold. If the eye medication contains cortisone and there is ulceration on the cornea, it will only worsen the ulcer and your animal may lose its eye.

What is the prognosis if my cat has conjunctivitis?

The prognosis of conjunctivitis is generally good but depending on the cause of the conjunctivitis, certain complications may arise. Infection with herpes virus may lead to a corneal sequestrum, symblepharon (partial or complete adhesion of the eyelid conjunctiva to the eyeball conjunctiva), or dry eye. These conditions are permanent and the cat will never recover fully if complications like these arise.  Conjunctivitis may be recurrent or chronic in some cases of infections. Because cats with herpes virus are often chronic carriers it is important to reduce stress in the environment as that is often the trigger for recurrent infections. Cats with underlying Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) or Feline Aids Virus (FIV) cannot be cured and because of their compromised immune systems, will always be prone to complications. Because of the recurrent nature of conjunctivitis in certain cats please do not lose faith in the vet or his or her ability to treat your cat. Work with the vet to understand the specifics of your cat’s condition and if the condition cannot be cured with a once off treatment, work out a strategy with the vet to manage the condition as effectively as possible. As with all medical conditions in pets, the sooner you attend to the problem once you notice any symptoms of conjunctivitis in your cat, the higher the likelihood of success with treatment. Don’t leave it till the cat can hardly see from its eyes and only then try and do something about it.

Is there a way to prevent conjunctivitis in my cat?

The answer is an unequivocal YES! By far the most effective way to prevent your cat from getting conjunctivitis is to have it vaccinated at the correct intervals and with the correct vaccines to prevent the upper respiratory tract diseases collectively known as “Snuffles”. Is it fool proof and will vaccination definitely prevent your cat from contracting these diseases? The answer is no. Sometimes viruses mutate or different strains infect your animal to what was in the vaccine. Does this mean that vaccinating is “fighting a losing battle”? Not at all. Having your cat vaccinated is certainly the best way to prevent disease, but does not guarantee that they won’t get infected. Making plans with cats who roam and land up in fights is a tough task, but can be done when there is a will to do so. Keeping cats with unpigmented eyelids indoors and out of the sun, is also a tough task because cats are by nature so inquisitive. Yet, if is means a better quality of life, cancer free, it is a small price to pay. Discuss your cat’s particular circumstances with the vet and find a solution with professional help.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty) Ltd

There is something wrong with my dog’s eyes

What is “dry eye?”

Keratocunjunctivitis Sicca (KCS) or dry eye as it is commonly known, is a condition found in humans and animals where the eyes do not produce enough tears or moisture for the eyeballs to stay moist and shiny.

Which animals are prone to dry eye?

The condition is common in dogs and rare in cats. Cats who do suffer from the condition tend to show fewer symptoms of eye problems than dogs.  Certain dog breeds are predisposed which include Cocker Spaniels, Bulldogs, West Highland White Terriers, Lhasa Apsos and Shih Tzus.

What are the symptoms of dry eye?

The symptoms associated with the condition can vary and are not necessarily very specific. This is why the owner of a pet with dry eye will realise there is something wrong with the dog’s eyes, but they cannot exactly describe what it is. The typical symptoms which one may notice vary and may include a combination of redness and swelling up of the inside of the eyelids (called chemosis), redness of the sclera (the white part of the eye next to the front “see through” (cornea) part of the eye), a discharge in the corner of the eyes, eyelids which are half open or sometimes closed tightly (blepharospasm), the third eyelids starting to move over the eyeball from the inside corner of the eye.  Humans with this condition will tell you that it feels like there is sand in their eyes. One can imagine that if there is not sufficient moisture or tears to lubricate the eyeballs that the movement of the eyelids over the eyeball becomes strained every time the animal blinks.  In bad cases which have been going for a while, the dryness on the eyeball can cause ulcers to start forming on the cornea with tiny blood vessels starting to appear on the shiny “see through” front part of the eyeball, the cornea. In severe cases, dry eye can lead to loss of vision and partial blindness.

Causes of and risk factors for dry eye

There are a wide range of reasons, conditions and external causes which can lead to dry eye.

Immunologic – Diseases, where the immunity of the animal is compromised or excessively challenged in one way or another, can lead to dry eye. One example is Atopic Dermatitis. This is an allergic skin condition often brought on by the inhalation of allergens like pollens (similar to hay fever in humans), which causes overall itching and scratching with areas of the skin being irritated and red and inflamed.

Congenital – A condition an animal is born with, with certain breeds like Pugs and Yorkshire Terriers more commonly affected.

Neurogenic – occasionally seen after trauma to the face like bite wounds or a car accident where the nerves supplying the tear gland or lacrimal gland are damaged.

Drug or procedure induced – Atropine which is a drug sometimes used to expand the iris so a proper eye exam of the back of the eye (the retina) can be performed will sometimes lead to a transient dry eye. In time this should clear up with no medication required. The same thing can happen when an animal is given a general anaesthetic (GA) and the vet forgets to put an ointment in the eye to cover the cornea, whilst they are doing a medical or surgical procedure. Most people do not realise that animals who are under general anaesthesia sleep with their eyes open. If dry eye happens because of a GA, it will usually clear up by itself a few days later.

Drug toxicity – One group of antibiotics called potentiated sulphonamides have been known to

cause transient or permanent dry eye.

Iatrogenic – Iatrogenic refers to an illness which is brought on by human intervention, typically a medical examination or treatment. The most common cause in dogs will be the removal of the third eyelid or membrana nictitans. There is a condition where this third eyelid starts moving over the eye and only in very exceptional circumstances should this third eyelid ever be removed.

Radiotherapy – Cancer of the eyelids is common in animals with white skin or low pigment in their skin. The treatment of this cancer may require radiotherapy where the beam needs to be aimed at the eyelids with the result that the eye itself is being radiated as well and this can lead to dry eye.

Chronic conjunctivitis – An inflammation with redness and swelling of the eyelids. This condition is more common in cats who suffer from chronic herpes or chlamydia infection.        

Can dry eye be confused with other conditions of the eye or the eyelids?

Yes indeed. Dry eye can often be confused with bacterial conjunctivitis. The reason for this is that dry eye will often lead to a situation where there is a secondary overgrowth of bacteria because of the compromised situation of the eye and eyelids. The secret to differentiate lies in the diagnosis which is discussed below.

How is dry eye diagnosed?

Dry eye is diagnosed with the Schirmer tear test. The Schirmer tear test is a simple procedure where a small piece of special absorbable paper is bent over on the one side and hooked on to the lower eyelid of the animal. The rate at which the paper gets wet and the moisture moves down on the piece of paper determines whether enough tears are formed to keep the eye wet. Usually, the paper needs to get wet at the rate of 14 mm per minute. If this does not happen and the paper only gets wet too for instance 5 mm within a minute, it confirms a diagnosis of dry eye.

Other diagnostic tests which the vet may want to perform are fluorescein staining where a bright orange fluid is dropped onto the eyeball. If there is an ulcer on the cornea (which often happens with dry eye) the colour will turn a bright green. If an ultraviolet light is shown onto it, it will turn even brighter and “fluoresce”. The vet may want to take a swab of the eye to do a culture and antibiogram in cases where treatment seems to be unsuccessful. The vet may also want to do a cytobrush test where a tiny “roller brush” is rolled onto the inside of the eyelids, smeared onto a microscope slide, and examined under a microscope. The diagnostic tests done will depend on the particular circumstances of each individual animal suspected to be suffering from dry eye.

How is dry eye treated?

Animals with a confirmed diagnosis of dry eye are usually treated as outpatients. The eyes have to be cleaned before the medication is administered. Owners are usually instructed to keep the eyes and the area around the eyes as clean as possible on an ongoing basis. This is usually done with wiping the eyelids with cotton wool or cloth moistened with lukewarm water or a saline solution. If the animal seems to be developing more pain as the treatment goes on, it is important to get such an animal back to the vet as soon as possible because animals with dry eye are predisposed to severe corneal ulceration if not attended to. In previous decades, before more modern and effective medication was available to treat dry eye a surgical procedure was done were the parotid duct, a small duct which transports saliva from the salivary glands to the back of the mouth, was surgically redirected to the corner of the eye. For lack of anything else this procedure did help to some degree but the saliva tended to be irritating to the cornea and some animals were always uncomfortable after surgery. Fortunately, there are great and effective drugs available to treat this condition today and the two most commonly used medications which stimulate the eye to produce tears are Cyclosporin and Tacrolimus. The vet will assist you in choosing the right option for your pet.

Prognosis for dry eye

Depending on the cause of dry eye, the outcome of treatment is usually very positive these days with the drugs available to help stimulate tear production for the eye. If there are no other conditions like ulceration of the eye, complicating the treatment, animals with dry eye can live good quality lives until they die but will most likely require life long treatment and regular veterinary checkups.

If you are not sure if your dog who seems to have an eye problem has dry eye, bring him or her to the vet for a checkup and have the correct diagnosis made and correct treatment recommended.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty.) Ltd.

My dog has what looks like a red cherry stuck in the corner of its eye

Introduction to cherry eye

Prolapsed gland of the third eyelid

A cherry eye is a non-life-threatening condition that occurs in dogs, and less often in some cat breeds.  It is an extremely descriptive term, as one can see an oval, bright red swelling in the inside corner of an affected dog’s or cat’s eye, resembling a cherry. As a pet owner one can easily become quite alarmed by seeing this, but fortunately, it only causes slight irritation to the dog initially and you will have time to attend to it and take your animal to the vet before the condition gets out of hand. It is never a good idea to just leave it be. The condition tends to occur more commonly in younger dogs and cats, usually between the ages of 2 and 6 years.

How does it happen that an animal develops a cherry eye?

A cherry eye is in actual fact a protrusion (or bulging out) of the gland of what is colloquially called the third eyelid. Dogs and cats have three eyelids, the top and bottom lids that close up and down over the eyeball as in humans, and then a third eyelid, otherwise called the nictitating membrane underneath the upper and lower eyelids. If you press on the eyeball through the upper eyelid, you will notice the third eyelid moving across the ball of the eye from the inside corner of the eye towards the outside corner of the eye.  This eyelid contains a gland that produces up to 30% of the tear production of the eye. The third eyelid provides extra protection to the animal’s eye and keeps the eye moist. The gland in the nictitating membrane is anchored to the corner of the eye by a connective tissue band. For reasons unknown, this connective tissue starts to weaken and the gland slips out of its pocket. If this happens, the gland is exposed to sun, wind, dust, and trauma from the outside. The gland becomes red and swollen, and eventually painful, due to inflammation. One or both eyes may be affected at the same time. The most common breeds affected by this condition are Beagles, Bulldogs, Spaniels, Shih Tzus, Pekingese, and other brachiocephalic (flat-faced) breeds. The condition is rare in cats but Burmese and Persians seem to have a higher incidence of cherry eye.

Other clinical signs associated with cherry eye.

You will quickly notice the red swelling in the corner of your animal’s eye. Other signs that you might notice are a mucoid discharge from the eye and/or redness in the tissue surrounding the eye, called conjunctivitis. Your pet might also show you he/she is experiencing discomfort by pawing at the eye or rubbing his/her face against objects. This can cause even more trauma to the exposed gland.

Course of action with cherry eye

Due to the fact that some dogs don’t seem phased by the popped out gland, some owners might opt to leave it like that. Not treating the gland may however cause more serious problems to the affected eye in years to come. As more damage is inflicted onto the popped out gland, the amount and quality of tear film that protects the eye will decrease causing chronic inflammation and irritation to the eye. The best would be to get treatment of the infected cornea eye as soon as possible. The vet will examine the eye closely and will usually recommend replacing the gland surgically. The vet may stain the cornea with a fluorescein stain to check for ulcers on the eye itself that might have occurred during protrusion of the gland. A few decades ago, it was common practice to remove the gland surgically when it protruded. This is not the practice any longer because by removing a gland that produces tears, the affected eye can dry out causing a condition called keratoconjunctivitis sicca, or more commonly referred to as ‘dry eye’. It is therefore no longer recommended to remove the gland surgically, unless the gland is so traumatised that it will lose its function in any case. Replacing the gland into its original position is usually done under general anaesthesia by anchoring the gland in its pocket with suture material. For an experienced veterinary surgeon it is a relatively easy surgical procedure to perform. The most common complication is a re-occurrence of the cherry eye and trauma to the cornea by suture. If the condition re-occurs it certainly does not mean that the vet did a hopeless job. Between 5 and 20% of dogs have a recurrence of the condition after the surgery. The reason is that the gland can protrude and prolapse to the other side where the sutures were not placed. If it happens the procedure just has to be repeated. There is no way of predicting whether your pet will be one of the unlucky ones where the condition recurs after the initial surgery.

Conclusion

It is not clear why the connective tissue of the third eyelid housing the tear gland weakens causing a cherry eye other than that there seems to be hereditary component.  It is therefore not recommended to breed with affected dogs. Taking your dog to be examined by the vet as soon as you see the signs of cherry eye, can save you a whole lot of problems with your pet’s eyes later in his/her life, and even save his or her eyesight.

© 2019 Vetwebsites – The Code Company Trading (Pty.) Ltd.

My dog’s nose seems to be all clogged up and hard and he is not well at all

Canine distemper

Following recent outbreaks of Distemper (Hondesiekte in Afrikaans) in Kwa Zulu Natal and Gauteng, it is important to have an understanding of this disease which is fatal in half of all cases of dogs that contract the disease.

What causes Distemper?

Distemper is a virus disease caused by the Canine Distemper Virus or CDV. This virus is a morbillivirus in the Paramyxoviridae family which is a virus group that affects humans, vertebrates and birds. This specific virus is not transmissible to humans but specifically targets dogs hence the name “Canine” Distemper Virus. The virus is closely related to measles virus in humans, and also to rinderpest virus in cattle, which at the beginning of the previous century almost killed the entire cattle population of Southern Africa. It’s a nasty virus.

What are the symptoms of Distemper?

The virus attacks mainly the respiratory system (from the nose right into the lungs), the gastro-intestinal system (from the mouth, through the stomach into the small and large intestines) and the central nervous system (mainly the brain). This means that the symptoms associated with the disease will be related to problems with these three main systems. In acute to subacute infections the dog will usually develop a fever within a day or two from being infected. The dog will go off its food and become weak and lethargic

Respiratory system symptoms may include a clogged up nose typically with mucous or slime that becomes hard, and hardening of the nose itself. This is a very telling symptom of Distemper but is by no means the only, or most typical, presentation of the disease. A dog with distemper may have a perfectly normal nose and still have the disease. Many times there will also be a discharge in the corners of the eyes. Other respiratory symptoms include coughing, sneezing and difficult breathing if the virus attacks the lungs.

If the gastrointestinal systems is affected you may see vomiting and/or diarrhoea.

If the central nervous system is involved you may have muscle tremors, a dog which seems disorientated and walks around as if they are drunk (ataxia), hind limbs which are dragged or seem lazy (paresis), a dog which cannot get up or falls down when they do get up (paralysis), and even seizures. Other symptoms which are not immediately visible and which only the vet may be able to pick up are lesions on the retina at the back of the eye, or an inflammation in the front of the eye called anterior uveitis. Hardening of the footpads  (hyperkeratosis) was previously quite common because of the strains of virus involved, but seem to be less common these days.

How is Distemper diagnosed?

There are several blood tests which can be done by the vet, but it is a difficult disease to diagnose because unlike a disease like biliary or tick fever in dogs where you can see the parasite in the blood with a bloodsmear, in Distemper, as with all other virus diseases, you cannot see the virus as it is simply too small. The trouble with the blood tests are that they are often not conclusive. The reason for this is that some of the tests, test if the dog is building up antibodies (“soldier”) against the virus. However a dog that may previously have been vaccinated may show antibodies and not have the disease. Sometimes the dog may die acutely before the body was able to produce neutralising antibodies, so in that case the test may be negative, yet the dog still had the disease.

Another type of blood test where the white and red blood cells are counted and where the white cells are less than usual, called lymphopenia,  may give an indication that the dog has a virus disease but it will not tell which virus the dog has.

If the dog has central nervous system symptoms, the fluid around the brain and spine called Cerebro Spinal Fluid (CSF) may contain antibodies but once again it may not be 100% diagnostic. There are other tests which can be run on the CSF (cell or protein content) which may be indicative, but does not conclusively confirm that the dog has Distemper.

There are a number of other diseases which can present with similar symptoms which the vet will have to rule out. On the respiratory side there is Kennel Cough or other upper respiratory tract infections. On the intestinal side there is Parvovirus and Coronavirus, parasitism like worms or Giardia, bacterial infections, toxin ingestion or inflammatory bowel disease. On the neurological side there is granulomatous meningoencephalitis, protozoal encephalitis (toxoplasmosis, neosporosis, babesia), cryptococcus or other infections (meningitis, Ehrlichiosis), pug dog encephalitis and lead or other poisoning.

Clearly Distemper is not a simple disease to diagnose and the vet will often have to rely on the age of the dog, its history, the results of the clinical tests and the appearance of the clinical symptoms, to make a diagnosis of Distemper.

How is Distemper transferred?

The virus is typically inhaled through the air from other sick dogs and also from physical contact with infected animals. The virus can survive for a period of time in the environment and if a dog which carries the virus sniffed around or spent time in a certain environment, it will leave tiny, tiny droplets (aerosol) which contain the virus in that area, which can then infect other dogs. A dog which is infected will inhale or ingest the virus and the virus will quickly spread through the mucous membranes to the local lymphnodes (these are like the remote “army bases” of the body which has to protect the body against invasions) where it will multiply and within one week the whole body will be infected.

How is Distemper treated?

Vets have over the years tried antiviral drugs of which there are very few anyway,  and none have been effective. As with almost all virus diseases one has to support the body in its own fight against the virus because it is only once the body has been successful to produce antibodies (the “soldier cells” which kill the “terrorist” or virus), that the dog will be able to overcome the disease. Often, when the body is attacked by viruses and the immune system is fighting hard to overcome the infection, bacteria will cause a secondary infection and make the whole situation worse. Therefore antibiotics are often administered even though it will do nothing against the virus, but at least it will help the body fight off opportunistic bacterial infections and help the body to overcome the disease. Other treatment depends largely on which systems are affected and to what extent. The vet will typically give symptomatic treatment, for example if the dog has seizures, the vet may administer a drug to help contain the seizures and make them less violent. Certain drugs should not be given and it is important to consult with the vet in case you think your dog may suffer from Distemper.

Can Distemper spread to humans or cats?

In the past it was suspected that the Canine Distemper Virus can cause Multiple Sclerosis in humans. However this has been proven NOT to be the case and as far as we know the disease cannot spread from dogs to humans. Similarly, as far as we know, this disease cannot be transferred to domestic cats.

What is the prognosis should my dog contract Distemper?

Unfortunately the prognosis is not good and the mortality rate is 50%. It will be very difficult for the vet to tell whether your dog will fall in the 50% that will survive or the 50% that will not make it. The vet will have to assess the extent and severity of the clinical symptoms and the progression of the disease and based on that, will advise you whether treatment has any chance of success or not. An important thing to remember is that even though the disease may not appear to be very far advanced when you first present your dog to the vet, and there seems to be early good response to treatment, like the clogging of the nose and the discharge in the eyes clearing up, the dog may still develop fatal central nervous system signs later on. It is important to understand that the vet has no control over which way the disease may go and will do his or her best with your animal’s best interest at heart, when recommending treatment or not.

Can Distemper be prevented?

A resounding yes! Vaccination has been hugely effective in almost eradicating this disease and all dogs should be vaccinated, preferably yearly at the same time as their annual health exam. Your vet will give you more specific advice related to the area you live in and the risk factors involved and should the vet think that annual vaccination is not necessary, the vet will advise you accordingly.

Puppies and old dogs are more commonly affected and all puppies should go through an initial vaccination program from 6 weeks onwards to provide protection. Puppies born from mothers who were vaccinated and had antibodies will get this protection from the initial milk or colostrum from the mother in the first few days after birth. The protection provided through the mother’s milk will start waning after six weeks and this is why vets normally start vaccinating at this time, and repeating the vaccination three or four times with booster vaccinations with monthly intervals and then yearly thereafter.

What do I do if I suspect my dog to have Distemper?

Get them to the vet as soon as you can. Home remedies or treatment is unlikely to give your dog a fighting chance. Proper supportive and secondary infection treatment remains the mainstay of treatment.

Most importantly, have your dog vaccinated. Prevention is always better than cure!

© 2019 The Code Company Vetwebsites

My pet injured its eye!

Just like in people, the eye of a dog or cat is a delicate structure that can be affected by a huge number of different conditions. This article will cover trauma to the eyelids, third eyelid and cornea.

Anatomy of dogs and cats eyes

The eye of the dog and cat is very similar in structure to the human eye but there are one or two differences. Both a cat and dog’s eye is globoid (round) in shape. The part of the eye exposed to the outside is protected by the eyelids and eyelashes, just as in people. The cornea is the see-through part of the eye. It is a thin layer, allowing light to pass through the pupil and lens to the back of the eye.  The white of the eye is known as the sclera. The conjunctiva is the pink part of the eye that can be seen between the eyelids and the eyeball. Dogs and cats both have an extra membrane, known as the third eyelid or nictitating membrane.  This membrane can be seen in the inner angle of the eye and sometimes it can cover most of the eye, particularly following trauma. 

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Trauma to the eyelids

The eyelids are the first structures protecting the delicate eyeball from the outside and potentially trauma. Due to being more active, getting into fights and exploring, cats and dogs are more prone to traumatizing their eyelids. Lacerations or cuts to the eyelids are a fairly common injury seen in most veterinary practices.  If there is any trauma to the eye, it is important to take your pet to the vet. Some injuries may be superficial and cleaning the wound with disinfectant may be all that is required. In other cases, the eyelid may need to be stitched back together. The sooner the eyelid is stitched, the better the chances of it staying together. It is very important that the eyelid margin (that is the part that the eyelashes attach to) remains smooth. If there is a kink in the eyelid margin, this can lead to further trauma to the eye and it can damage to the sensitive cornea.  Once the eyelid has been stitched, your pet may require eye drops for a few days to assist with the healing and prevent any infection.

Trauma to the third eyelid

Sometimes the third eyelid can be lacerated. This is commonly seen in cats that have been involved in a fight and have been scratched in the eye.  If the third eyelid is badly traumatized, it may need to be sutured.

Trauma to the cornea

Corneal ulcers

The most common injury seen to the cornea is corneal ulceration. This is where the first outer layer of the cornea (the epithelium) is damaged, exposing the more sensitive inner stroma of the cornea. This can be very painful. A scratch to the eye or a splash of shampoo or other caustic substances can cause an ulcer.  There are some viruses, such as herpes virus in cats that can also cause ulcers in the cornea. Often we do not know what has caused the ulcer. If you notice your dog or cat squinting, or the eye is closed and seems painful, then it is important to take them to the vet immediately. Often the conjunctiva will also be inflamed. This is known as conjunctivitis. The eye may also have some discharge.

The vet will examine the eye with an ophthalmoscope. This will allow the inside of the eye to be seen and ensure that there is nothing else going on. The vet will then perform a fluorescein test. This is where an orange stain is placed on the cornea. The eye is then looked at with a UV light (blue coloured light). If there is any defect in the cornea, this will show up as bright green. The corneal epithelium does not take up any stain but if the stroma is exposed it will take up the stain. 

Corneal ulcers can vary in size and severity. It is important to start treatment as soon as possible as the quicker it is treated, the more likely it is to heal. If the injury is superficial and small topical treatment with eye drops remains the most effective treatment. It is important that eye drops containing corticosteroids are not used as this delays the healing of the cornea and can, in fact, make the ulcer worse. Other drops and medications may be needed for pain control or to maintain the eye’s lubrication. The eye will need to be assessed daily to ensure that it is healing. In some cases, further treatment will be needed. In severe cases, the ulcer may need to be covered with either the third eyelid or some conjunctiva. This procedure will need to be done under general anaesthetic. The flap is placed over the cornea and sutured in place to give the cornea time to heal. The vet may even give you a referral to a specialist veterinary ophthalmologist which is a vet who would have done between four and six years of extra study over and above their veterinary degree, to become an eye specialist.

There is no set time to how long the cornea will take to heal but daily checkups are required initially to ensure that the condition is not deteriorating. In very severe or long-standing cases, the eye may even need to be removed. 

Foreign bodies within the eye

Penetration of the cornea by foreign bodies such as thorns, glass and sand can be seen in dogs and cats. This is normally very painful and can quickly lead to infection within the eye. If the foreign body is just penetrating the surface of the cornea, it may be removed with the aid of local anaesthetic. In severe cases, where the foreign body has penetrated deeper into the cornea and eye, it will need to be surgically removed. Fine instruments are often required in order not to damage the eye further and this procedure may need to be performed by a specialist ophthalmologist. If your pet is showing any signs of pain or discharge to their eye, it is important to seek immediate veterinary attention.

What is the prognosis with eyelid and corneal trauma?

The prognosis of injuries to the eyelids and cornea will depend on the severity of the trauma. If treated quickly, then permanent damage to the eye is minimized but this does depend on how extensive the injury is. The cornea scars white and so if the ulcer is very deep or long-standing this can affect the eyesight, particularly if the scar forms over the part of the cornea that is in front of the pupil. It is important to remember that the quicker it is treated, the more successful the treatment is likely to be. If you notice any pain, discharge or redness to your pet’s eye, it is important to take them to vet for an assessment. You may ask how do you determine that your pet experiences pain in their eyes? Apart from you visibly seeing damage to the eye or noticing an eye which is excessively teary, you will most likely notice your pet scratching at the injures eye with their front paw or alternative scratching the eye or face on furniture or the carpet, in an effort to relieve the discomfort and pain. If you are in doubt, err on the conservative side and get your pet to the vet as soon as you can. The loss of eyesight through the loss of an eye is simply not worth risking seeing whether the animal will get better by themselves.

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